Why did my speaker crossover explode?
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,190
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From: Eastern Washington
Why did my speaker crossover explode?
This is 3 days after installed. Anyone know what would cause it? The gain and frequency on the amp was set at factory recommendations. Volume about 3/4 up. Just went out and caused the fuse in the amp to pop.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,512
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From: Vancouver BC
From the picture it looks like you've exceeded the rated voltage on the electrolytic capacitor causing it to to explode. Capacitors block D.C. voltages and pass A.C. voltages (such as music). The problem arises when the peak to peak voltage of the A.C. cycle exceeds the rating of the capacitor thus punching small holes through the mylar/aluminum foil inside causing a short, heating and eventual exploding.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
often called a "passive crossover" these networks are more of a filter to keep low frequencies from going to tweeters ( which could damage the tweeter).
Expect the filter to convert about 20 to 30% of your amplifier power into heat and light.---pretty inefficient.
IF you are going for a high power hi fi result, look into an active crossover in which the frequencies are divided electronically, from the head unit, then sent to dedicated amps for the low ( woofer) and high ( tweeter) speakers/ transducers.
If you want to stay with this, you can replace the cap with same value- the coil resistance and the cap value determine the frequencies which are allowed to the tweeter. ( it is possible it was just a bad component and was destined to fail)
before turning on, check the woofer and tweeter for proper resistance ( ohms)- and double check your wiring install.
the light bulb is meant to act as a fuse ( so check it) it can also ( depending on value) act as a type of compressor, reducing the dynamic content of the program material
Mike
Expect the filter to convert about 20 to 30% of your amplifier power into heat and light.---pretty inefficient.
IF you are going for a high power hi fi result, look into an active crossover in which the frequencies are divided electronically, from the head unit, then sent to dedicated amps for the low ( woofer) and high ( tweeter) speakers/ transducers.
If you want to stay with this, you can replace the cap with same value- the coil resistance and the cap value determine the frequencies which are allowed to the tweeter. ( it is possible it was just a bad component and was destined to fail)
before turning on, check the woofer and tweeter for proper resistance ( ohms)- and double check your wiring install.
the light bulb is meant to act as a fuse ( so check it) it can also ( depending on value) act as a type of compressor, reducing the dynamic content of the program material
Mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Jul 3, 2011 at 04:02 AM.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Jaw-Jaw (Near The BIG Chicken!)
A second passion aside from riding is restoring antique radios. If this happened to me, I'd replace all the capacitors with those of a higher voltage rating and try to stay as close the the mfd. value of the electrolytics as possible. A good source would be Antique Electronics in Tempe, AZ.
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