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As I've stated on the forum before, I have had an awful time trying to find neutral while my 2010 Limited is running. I vowed to myself that I would figure this problem out. Last week I did my 1000 mile checkup so I did a clutch adjustment and I changed the tranny fluid to Amsoil Severe Gear 75-90 hoping that this would help. The service manual says that to adjust the clutch, you undo the locknut, back the adjuster screw off until it is slack, run it in until you just feel resistance, then back it off 1/2 -1 full turn. I thought that if I backed off 3/4 turn, I'd be right in the middle of the adjustment and thus pretty good. That ain't the case! I still couldn't get the d****d bike into neutral so I called my dealer to ask what to do next. He said that I needed to go 1 full turn on the adjuster screw. I did it and WOW! I can now actually get the bike into neutral with the engine running almost every time. It's not perfect yet, but a whole lot better than it was.
I know what you mean. This is my 33rd motorcycle, but my first HD. (2010 FLHTC) I have never owned a bike that is so hard to find neutral at the stoplight. Just got a 10,000 mile service done, so I'll see if its any better. I do love my HD though!
Blip the throttle also while flipping up or down ever so slightly. At 1,000 miles things are still going to be stiff. In my case at 5,000 miles it is a bit easier to find neutral now.
I have trouble finding neutral with my 10 limited as well. I use the Spectro Platinum 6 speed tranny fluid as recommended by Baker. Will have to try the clutch adjustment.
I had my 07 with 3600 miles for about 6 wks now (finally also have an owners and service manual as well). Installed the H-D oil cooler and Mobil 1 v-twin - solved the heat issue as people indicated (1-3 gear stop & go dropped from high of 289 to 249).
Now it's also time to try adjusting the clutch and replacing the trans/gear oils. What I would like to understand better is the mechanics behind why so easy when cold, but much tougher when warm/hot. Touching while blipping accelerator has been best for me; still tough. Cheers, Kevin.
Never saw so many that "can't find neutral". It comes naturally. When slowing down, a little half tap with the toe shifter grabs it every time from second gear. If, by some chance you miss it that way, a half tap on the heel shifter from 1st gear will give you another chance. It is a riding skill that some give up on much too quickly.
Perhaps a riding skill specific to H-D; never, ever had issues with neutral on metrics (vintage or recent). Guessing H-Ds are just more sensitive to good clutch adjustment, but I will know for sure once I get to it - so much riding and modding to do Cheers, Kevin.
Wet clutches don't completely disengage. Pulling the clutch lever forces the plates apart enough to allow them to slip enough to be called disengaged. The ball-&-ramp pushes a push rod across the transmission to apply that force. The adjuster adds or removes slack in that ball-&-ramp/push rod mechanism. Too tight, & the push rod spins with the clutch & burns up the throw out bearing. Too loose & you give up some of the very small distance the ball-&-ramp can push the push rod.
Obviously, you want as much separation in the clutch as you can get. More slippage makes shifts & finding neural easier.
Too much tension on the primary chain will also reduce slippage. Blipping the throttle causes a standing wave in the chain that eases tension for a second. That allows neutral to be found easier.
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