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Help! I'm too short!

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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 11:19 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by nine11c2
Because dirt bikes weigh 250lbs. Harley's weigh 850lbs. And relatively new riders don't always come to slow, comfortable stops on big *** bikes..
And, that's why new riders shouldn't start out on big *** bikes?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 11:29 AM
  #22  
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I've taught a lot of people to ride. The BIGGEST H-D I think anyone should learn on is a Dyna SuperGlide and the guy on that was my brother, with a clue what he was doing and he's 6'2" and 220. Hes got a SHOT of not dropping the bike on himself, though even he did once or twice.

A typical guy should learn on a nice 500 or 650. A slighter/older or woman on a nice Rebel 250 or similar Virago.

Not being sexist - but the first 100 times you start, ride and come to a stop while learning, you're going to be (and most important stop) awkward 25-40 times. The next 100 times, 20-30 times. You can only handle not being able to simply hold the bike up and/or being flatfooted AFTER YOU'VE LEARNED to control the bike from 0-100Mph and back to zero. And most important, when you stop quickly, wind up with the bike leaning to one side, and drop the foot on the side your leaning land in a ditch two inches lower than you thought and on gravel... The money you "save" by not buyin a 500 is gonna be made up with the damage you are gonna do on a big bike learning on it.

Sorry, I'll get off my soapbox now..

I agree with you MC, if you can ride the bike, you do NOT need to flat foot. In fact, most good riders can stop with one foot down.

Originally Posted by mcrider1
And, that's why new riders shouldn't start out on big *** bikes?
 

Last edited by nine11c2; Jul 10, 2011 at 11:32 AM.
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 11:29 AM
  #23  
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Reach seat smeach seat...Get the women in Caletcb's avatar to sit behind you. That will push you forward enough to properly place your feet.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 11:33 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by fabrik8r
Go with the reach seat or get the stock seat modified, the SG already sacrifices an inch of shock travel compared to EG. Shorter shocks will make the SG ride and handle like crap, lowering blocks will have the same effect.
You are correct in that shorter shocks makes for a stiffer ride, but the lowering blocks don't have the same effect. The lowering blocks let's you keep the stock shock travel and only changes the shock angle slightly. I've been riding since 1967. I know a good ride from a bad one. Getting the center of gravity lower improves handling. I've been running lowering blocks on three bagger's now. An 08 UC, a 09 EGC and have them on my 2010 RK. Ride is not compromised a bit. I think it rides better!
 
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 12:21 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Ronp42
You are correct in that shorter shocks makes for a stiffer ride, but the lowering blocks don't have the same effect. The lowering blocks let's you keep the stock shock travel and only changes the shock angle slightly. I've been riding since 1967. I know a good ride from a bad one. Getting the center of gravity lower improves handling. I've been running lowering blocks on three bagger's now. An 08 UC, a 09 EGC and have them on my 2010 RK. Ride is not compromised a bit. I think it rides better!
Congratulations, you got about 7 years riding experience on me. No doubt folks have had succes by their own definition, by running shorter shocks, lowereing blocks, or a combination of the two. As one of the other Napoleans mentioned, It can be done. I know as well as anyone, that damn near anything can be done. A lowered machine may feel fine, or acceptable to some people, but all other things being equal, there is absolutely no way it will ride or handle as well as standard height machine with the correct suspension components and geometry set up properly. Lowering blocks on a SG with OEM SG shocks will result in the rear wheel rubbing the fender on compression. Just ask around, a whole lotta folks go back to standard components or configuration after trying out the lowering route. You short guys can keep telling each other what a sweet ride you got, but don't waste your breath on me. It would be a lot cheaper and quicker to just get some Radar O'reily elevator boots from the Deluth Trading Company.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 01:35 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by fabrik8r
Congratulations, you got about 7 years riding experience on me. No doubt folks have had succes by their own definition, by running shorter shocks, lowereing blocks, or a combination of the two. As one of the other Napoleans mentioned, It can be done. I know as well as anyone, that damn near anything can be done. A lowered machine may feel fine, or acceptable to some people, but all other things being equal, there is absolutely no way it will ride or handle as well as standard height machine with the correct suspension components and geometry set up properly. Lowering blocks on a SG with OEM SG shocks will result in the rear wheel rubbing the fender on compression. Just ask around, a whole lotta folks go back to standard components or configuration after trying out the lowering route. You short guys can keep telling each other what a sweet ride you got, but don't waste your breath on me. It would be a lot cheaper and quicker to just get some Radar O'reily elevator boots from the Deluth Trading Company.
I'm not wasting my breath on you. I'm 6 ft 215 lbs, so I'm not a short guy either. Lot's of Rider's have tried the lowering blocks with great success. They were designed as an economical way to lower a bike. People that have had problems obviously didn't install them correctly. I got them because I wanted to get the Center of gravity down. The bike handles, rides and looks better. I raced Motorcycles for a number of years. I know a little about handling. You are entitled to your opinion, as I am mine. As for a Street Glide, I rented a new 2011 for a day while my bike was in the shop having the Voltage Regulator replaced. Within 20 miles of leaving the dealer, I was missing my Road king.
 

Last edited by Ronp42; Jul 10, 2011 at 02:07 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 01:43 PM
  #27  
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If you use a Progressive kit - which lowers but replaces the standard spirngs with ones that are stronger,at least towards the end of travel - does it make the lowering better handling than the blocks?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 01:44 PM
  #28  
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You may want to try this:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rack_%28torture%29
 
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 01:55 PM
  #29  
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Corbin can lower their seats over 1" and that really helps.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 02:09 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by nine11c2
If you use a Progressive kit - which lowers but replaces the standard spirngs with ones that are stronger,at least towards the end of travel - does it make the lowering better handling than the blocks?
Think about it, If you shorten a shock travel and put heavier springs in, it's going to stiffen the ride a lot. Theres a reason the MoCo put these shocks on touring bikes. They are touring bikes!
 
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