So my story starts a week ago Saturday, after having 4000 flawless miles on my 555 cam swap we left on our summer trip to Maine. The 3rd day out after starting the bike I was getting a heavy ticking about 3000 RPM's that would subside after it warmed up. On the 5th day it started the ticking (heavy loud) from start up until it warmed up, and then above 3000 rpms all of the time! Not having much for tools, I got up the next morning and pulled the pushrod clips, tried rolling the bike around in 6th gear getting the lifters down and the rear inboard pushrod was a little looser than the others but it did not seem too bad, and made a gage to compare the lock nut to lock nut distance on each push rod. THey were all close, and my thinking was after the inital loading the lifter .100 I would notice if one backed down, so I put it back together and rolled with it making sure I either did not shut the bike off or let it warm up good, and did not run over 3k rpm's. We did not have extra days for down time, so I just said F' it. It held together for 3500 miles with me running between 2k & 3K but sure was not as fun, 6th gear & 60 mph that cam motored up & down the mountains just fine at about 2300 rpms!
We just got home last night so I have not tore into it but not wanting to make a long story longer, how do you tell if a lifter is bad???

 

If you think you have a bad lifter, replace the suspected offender with new. If the noise goes away, guess what, the lifter was bad.

Before replacing it though, readjust and take the preload to .120"-.130" and see if that makes any difference.

 

Back in 2005 or 2006, my brother had his new Road Glide (88") built into a 103", using all H-D parts. They used the Harley high performance lifters which were made by JIMS. After about 40,000 miles, and while we were coming back from a cross country trip, the engine started knocking just like a lifter. We were about 300 miles from home so he kept riding it but it got worse and even started to lose power and miss. When I partially tore it down we found all the needle bearings gone from the roller at the bottom of one of the lifters. It tore the hell out of everything. In the end he had the engine rebuilt and about the only thing they reused were the cases and heads. Maybe the flywheel assy also, but I can't remember.

I would pull the timing cover off it right now and check and see what you have going on in there, after you pull the lifters out and thoroughly check them.

 

Guntoter's post reminded me of the recent change of the previously fairly reliable HD "B" lifer to a "C" lifter. The country of origin has changed to Mexico and the reports I am seeing are that the quality of the "C" lifter is below the standard set by the "B" lifter. One specific area in quality reduction is the roller. As Guntoter has pointed out, a failed roller can be bad juju and wipe out your motor.

Point is that if you decide to replace lifters avoid the HD pieces. There are several other options and they vary in cost. The most expensive would be the new Woods lifters, next perhaps the HQ Black Ops, Comp Cams lifter for the small block chevy. Comp cams receives SBC lifters from several suppliers; you want those from Delphi. Fueling offers lifters but I seems they have problems of their own. AMS offers their HyLift lifter but don't know much about them.

Main thing, just don't get the HD lifters.

 

Can you use small block CHEVY LIFTERS in Twin Cam? If so what is the part #?

 

Disclaimer first; I have never run the SBC lifters, so the information I am providing is from reading what some others have done; reliable information but not personal experience.

There are definitely some guys running them with no issues. There are two main differences between the SBC and HD "B" lifter. The oil feed hole in the HD lifter is .100" ID and .070" ID in the SBC lifter. The lifter cups are dimensionally different; the HD cups being a little bit thicker. Smarter guys than I don't have a problem with them but do recommend that if you run them to change out the cup. Very easy to remove the retainer clip/cup from each set and install the HD cups in the SBC lifters; takes about two minutes per lifter; this I have done.

The Comp Cams, through the Comp V-Thunder site offer lifters for Evos and Twin Cams for about $150/each.

http://www.compperformancegroupstore..._Code=LFTRPHRL.

If I was going that route, I would call Comp Cams and order a set but specify that you only want Delphi manufactured lifters. From what I understand, there is a parts guy there who goes by "Red" that is the guy to talk to on this subject. There are two PNs for the Comp Cams lifters; 850-1 for the Roller lifter and 875-1 for the HyLift lifter; I don't know the difference between the two.

The GM PN for the SBC lifter is 17122490.

Since the "B" lifter is no longer available, I run the Woods lifters; pricey but none better.

 

could also be a bent valve or a valve guide come loose? look in the exhaust ports and see if you have any seepage. I have used every brand lifter on the market, and the ones that seem to be the best bang for the buck are just stock HD.

 

Agree on the stock HD but the stock HD has taken a quality hit, like the cheezy cranks and rods, cam plates with no outer bearings, etc. Based on what I have seen and read, I would not use the stock HD units. Even the SE units made by Jims have a history of problems and failures.

 

Quality has definately taken a turn for the worst....but hey look on the bright side, HD is profitable again

 

Pull the lifters. Try to move the rollers with your fingers (no, don't roll 'em, move 'em side to side/up & down) if you can move 'em, they're bad. Replace all of 'em with new. Check the cam chest for debris.