When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My UC is due for the 5K. I have the shop manual and want to do the maintenance myself. One thing required for the procedure is to check the tension on the drive belt and adjust as necessary. The shop manual calls for 2 specialty tools....the belt tension gauge and the axle nut torque adapter. I called 2 dealerships and they both told me that H-D will not sell these tools to the public. What do we do in such circumstances?
One other question....This morning, when I had the bike on the lift for washing, I did the procedure for checking the steering head bearings. For the UC, it's supposed to be between 3 and 4 swings. Mine's only doing 2. Actually, every time I have the bike on the lift I've done this check, just for my own interest. It's never done but 2 swings since it was new. The dealership did the 1K and I'm "assuming" that they greased the steering head and checked it. Is this adjustment critical? If so, mine's never been to spec. BTW...I didn't remove the clutch cable or the main harness, which are mentioned in the shop manual. Doing both is a lot of work. Opinions?
1.) once the tension is correct, learn the 'feel" with your fingertips.
over 20 years with belt drive H-D's , I've never used the factory gauge.
They used to spec deflection ( such as 5/8" at 10 pounds upward force), so you'd just push up and measure- I'd use a 5/8" open end wrench and eyeball it.---my 88 FXRP has a graduated slot as a gauge built into the belt guard.
torque adapter, I can get on my axle no problem, maybe that's with stock mufflers, you can't get at it?
with the clutch cable and harness in place, the front end won't swing
think about replacing fasteners so that all your covers are allen heads, less tools to carry on the road.
Find a 10 lb. object and lift it with one finger. Go to your bike. Put that same pressure on the belt equi-distant between the pulleys. If the belt deflects 1/2" to 5/8 " you're good to go. Otherwise adjust it.
That hi tech method has gotten my 12 year old bike 92,000 miles (so far.)
And yes, you do have to remove the clutch cable to do a proper Fall-a-Way test.
Find a 10 lb. object and lift it with one finger. Go to your bike. Put that same pressure on the belt equi-distant between the pulleys. If the belt deflects 1/2" to 5/8 " you're good to go. Otherwise adjust it.
That hi tech method has gotten my 12 year old bike 92,000 miles (so far.)
And yes, you do have to remove the clutch cable to do a proper Fall-a-Way test.
That is exactly what most of us do. The only thing I would add is to spin the wheel over by hand until you find the loosest point in the belt. It is at the loosest point where you check the belt deflection. Your service manual will tell you the exact deflection for your model but 3/8"- 1/2" will get you in the ballpark. It is actually better to have a belt slightly overtightened than one that has excess slack in it.
That is exactly what most of us do. The only thing I would add is to spin the wheel over by hand until you find the loosest point in the belt. It is at the loosest point where you check the belt deflection. Your service manual will tell you the exact deflection for your model but 3/8"- 1/2" will get you in the ballpark. It is actually better to have a belt slightly overtightened than one that has excess slack in it.
Thanks for adding that...Absolutely correct.
The tension is checked with the bike on the ground after locating the loosest point.
The tension is checked with the bike on the ground after locating the loosest point.
Not entirely true.....from the service manual.....
"Check deflection...With motorcycle upright and rear wheel off the ground or on jiffy stand without rider or luggage."
It looks like you can do the check on the ground or on a lift. My preference would be to do it on a lift. It's much easier to get to things and see the scale on the debris deflector.
That is exactly what most of us do. The only thing I would add is to spin the wheel over by hand until you find the loosest point in the belt. It is at the loosest point where you check the belt deflection. Your service manual will tell you the exact deflection for your model but 3/8"- 1/2" will get you in the ballpark. It is actually better to have a belt slightly overtightened than one that has excess slack in it.
That is just the opposite of what I have always heard. I am not a mechanic, I cannot give an expert opinion but I have always thought it is far better to have the belt on the loose side, over tightening causes damage.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.