Cam question
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento
Excuse me for jumping on board, but I have a similar set up; Stage One download, Big Sucka, Cycle Shack slipons on an 88" 03 RK. I have the remanufactured factory motor and it just needs a little more in the mountains where I mostly ride (Sacramento also). The constant downshifting is getting to me. Someday I would like to pick up a newer RG, so I would like to moderate any upgrades and was thinking about going with the S&S 510 chain drive cams. As in this thread the Andrews 26 has come up as a good fit for my needs so are they equal in performance? Aren't both designed for heavier bikes with owners wanting good low to mid range increases?
I watched a good tutorial on a basic chain drive cam swap and it didn't look that complicated. However, I have to watch it again (and again) because there was a measuring device used at the end of the piece, not sure what it was, maybe for measuring crank run out? If thats the case I thought run out didn't apply to the chain drives. I'm no mechanic, far from it, but discovered an interest in learning how to do valve clearances on Ducatis. I just don't want to F something up by getting in over my head. I have to watch my coin since I retired, but I'm no cheap bastard either.
I watched a good tutorial on a basic chain drive cam swap and it didn't look that complicated. However, I have to watch it again (and again) because there was a measuring device used at the end of the piece, not sure what it was, maybe for measuring crank run out? If thats the case I thought run out didn't apply to the chain drives. I'm no mechanic, far from it, but discovered an interest in learning how to do valve clearances on Ducatis. I just don't want to F something up by getting in over my head. I have to watch my coin since I retired, but I'm no cheap bastard either.
was thinking about going with the S&S 510 chain drive cams. As in this thread the Andrews 26 has come up as a good fit for my needs so are they equal in performance? Aren't both designed for heavier bikes with owners wanting good low to mid range increases?
I watched a good tutorial on a basic chain drive cam swap and it didn't look that complicated. However, I have to watch it again (and again) because there was a measuring device used at the end of the piece, not sure what it was, maybe for measuring crank run out? If thats the case I thought run out didn't apply to the chain drives. I'm no mechanic, far from it, but discovered an interest in learning how to do valve clearances on Ducatis. I just don't want to F something up by getting in over my head. I have to watch my coin since I retired, but I'm no cheap bastard either.
I watched a good tutorial on a basic chain drive cam swap and it didn't look that complicated. However, I have to watch it again (and again) because there was a measuring device used at the end of the piece, not sure what it was, maybe for measuring crank run out? If thats the case I thought run out didn't apply to the chain drives. I'm no mechanic, far from it, but discovered an interest in learning how to do valve clearances on Ducatis. I just don't want to F something up by getting in over my head. I have to watch my coin since I retired, but I'm no cheap bastard either.
A cam swap is a basic job, easily within the reach of a novice mechanic. The 88 motor is a little more complicated than the 96, due the roller bearings in the cam plate, and the need to press in/out the cams.
Swapping the cams into your cam plate is a 5 minute job for someone who's done it before, and has access to an arbor press (or small hydraulic press). You should be able to take your cams and cam plate into your dealer, or independant shop, and have them press your cams in while you wait. If you're a regular customer, they might not charge you anything.
The newer style cam plate has plain bearings, and the cam journals just slip into place, which makes things a lot simpler for the home mechanic.
You could change over the the hybrid cams, and the hydraulic cam plate, but that winds up being a pretty expensive deal. If you're on a tight budget, you keep your existing cam plate, and put in new tensioners when you change cams, and consider them a maintainance item. It's usually the inside tensioner shoe that goes first, so you need a little mirror to check them with the cam plate still installed on the bike.
As far as your cams, the Andrews 26, S&S 510, Screamin Eagle 203 and 204 cams are all fairly similar in terms of the performance you'd get.
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