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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 08:19 AM
  #31  
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cooper57M
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i used craftsman in inch and ft lbs and they nerver failed me. I also have used proto for the rear wheel works great.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 08:45 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Chunker
Craftsman quality has gone down in the last few years. Their wrenches, combination, sockets, etc. are top notch, but stuff with moving parts just are not what they used to be. I won't waste any more money on sears drills and such and not the torque wrenches either. Go on line, read some of the user comments about the torque wrenches and then decide. Since I don't "wrench" for a living, the HF or Northern tool will work for me. And as said earlier, a beam type, mine is Craftsman, doesn't need calibration. As long as you don't drive over it and bend it, it will work just fine. It does take a bit more care in it's use to get accurate torque setting, but just take your time.
I keep hearing beam style are accurate and don't need calibrating. In most industry settings they are not used because of the application....click style is way faster and simpler.

I am tempted to buy one and see how accurate they are. My initial thought is they would not meet our tolerances in the lower inch pound range, but I'd like to see anyway. If it's good....probably be good for the home use in the inch pounds. They are the best priced torque wrenches. In foot pounds, I still like the click style better.

With the inch pound wrenches...we mostly use dial indicating Snap-on and they are getting "cheaply" made also. They are still a good wrench though - especially for the home wrencher. Here at work We usually just throw them out when they fail calibration and buy a new one.

I try not to get "stuck" on one brand because quality goes up and down in different companies at different times.

I'll brag on the 0-150 ft/lb click style Armstrong wrenches for now though....
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 08:57 AM
  #33  
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I have a hard time believing the beam style torque wrench is even accurate! It would take a while to convince me that the metat used, never fatigues. And that every handle that particular company makes, bends exactly the same.....and i'm assuming they only make one scale that they put on every torque wrench that is that size. Now, as for my clicker torque wrenches....they are sent in once a year to be calibrated. And if just a FYI, don't leave your torque wrench set on a particular setting for any amount of time(i always turn mine back to zero), and if you every drop your torque wrench, or bump the handle on any thing very hard, you should send it in to have it checked for accuracy.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 09:01 AM
  #34  
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Which of the wrenches stop torquing when you get to the set pressure instead of a small click you can't feel half the time so you end up over tighting?

I have a craftman and I have to be VERY careful and pay close attention or I will not notice the click and the wrench will continue to torgue down on the nut. I want one that will clearly let me know without a doubt I have reach the pressure I have it set at.
 

Last edited by jjnoble; Aug 4, 2011 at 09:03 AM.
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 09:09 AM
  #35  
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I bought one at AutoZone. Any job that requires more accuracy that it provides will be done by someone else. And 12 inch-pounds = 1 foot pound so if you can do math you can get by with one.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 09:13 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by jjnoble
Which of the wrenches stop torquing when you get to the set pressure instead of a small click you can't feel half the time so you end up over tighting?

I have a craftman and I have to be VERY careful and pay close attention or I will not notice the click and the wrench will continue to torgue down on the nut. I want one that will clearly let me know without a doubt I have reach the pressure I have it set at.

I don't know of a wrench that will stop you from over torquing past the click, but I don't know everything. Perhaps if someone invents an electric one that zaps your *** at the torque setting. When I was on active duty, I took my Craftsman 1/2" torque wrench to the maintenance shop and they had a calibration machine. Mine was off by 5 pounds, read low, so I just set things down by 5. I wasn't working on critical items so could get away with that method. My beam type 3/8" drive is in inch pounds and does a good job but it is more time consuming, not as easy as set and click, but accurate. I checked it's calibration also. My 1/2" wrench got to where it's wouldn't click so it's in the land fill now. If I did critical torques on something aviation, I would spend the $$$ on a precise clicker,but since it just a bike and truck, the HF and such will work for me.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 09:37 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by dusty6700
Now, as for my clicker torque wrenches....they are sent in once a year to be calibrated. And if just a FYI, don't leave your torque wrench set on a particular setting for any amount of time(i always turn mine back to zero), and if you every drop your torque wrench, or bump the handle on any thing very hard, you should send it in to have it checked for accuracy.
You know....that is something that has not been stressed, and you are exactly right.....if you use it regular.....get it sent out and calibrated. Otherwise....you really don't know what you have, doesn't matter what brand it is. Might as well use a rachet and guess.

If it's been 5 years sinced you touched it....get it calibrated. It's not as expensive as you think. Get a NIST traceable calibration.(ensures accuracy)

(wonder how many mechanics in harley shops ever get their torque wrenches calibrated...lol)
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 09:41 AM
  #38  
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I have 3 craftsman wrenches: a 3/8 drive inch pound, a 3/8 drive foot pound that goes to 75 ft lbs or so, and a big 1/2 inch drive that goes to 150 ft pounds. 150 is actually not big enough for some things like the compensator sprocket bolt, for example, but you can borrow one for those rare times you need something like that.

I always try to by the best quality tools I can get. I have some tools I have had for 30 years. Most of the cheaper tools are made in China and the old adage "you get what you pay for" comes to mind there. I would buy Snapon, Mac or Proto if I could afford them, but Craftsman is what I can afford so that's what I get. I think I spent about $80 for each of my torque wrenches and use the heck out of them.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 10:13 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by nivensid
Tried a search, not any luck. On my previous bike, I did most all my mechanical but never had a good torque wrench. Well now, with my new Ultra Limited, I want to do it right.
What torque wrench does everyone use on their Harley for general maintenance? It looks like 2 will be necessary. One for inch pounds and one for foot pounds. I have looked on line but figure I would go straight to the ones who actually use them on their bikes.
Thanks
Snap-On click type, is what I use. IMO, the digital ones are a waste of money.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 10:20 AM
  #40  
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I always try to by the best quality tools I can get. I have some tools I have had for 30 years. Most of the cheaper tools are made in China and the old adage "you get what you pay for" comes to mind there. I would buy Snapon, Mac or Proto if I could afford them, but Craftsman is what I can afford so that's what I get. I think I spent about $80 for each of my torque wrenches and use the heck out of them.[/quote]

This is why i didn't recommend he goes out and buy a $300 torque wrench. I have Snap-on torque wrenches(as well as most of my other tools) because i'm a mechanic(big trucks) and i use them often. And i only chose snap-on because the snap-on dealer comes by once a week to sell us tools & see if we need any tools fixed or replaced. It's more convienient for me to have these, but wouldn't be afraid of Craftsman if i had a sears close to me.
 
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