Replacing stator
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
stator is checked with an ohm meter
with it in place, meter set at RX1 scale you check from either hole to ground, and should see no reading ( so "infinity" ohms). ( if the stator is out of the bike you can probably meter from plug holes to stator mounting screw
now plugging into stator socket you should see .1 to .2 ohms between the 2 poles 9 you can check this in place or out.
IF the stator checks good, and you are using exact same type stator-( which means the old stator matches up with new rotor) you have the choice of;
using old stator-- because sometimes earlier production items are "built" better
using new stator-- and keeping th eold one as a "spare"
Either way good luck.
If seems you are doing this without the manual ( because that has the stator checks in it)- so take your time and ask when not sure.
mike
with it in place, meter set at RX1 scale you check from either hole to ground, and should see no reading ( so "infinity" ohms). ( if the stator is out of the bike you can probably meter from plug holes to stator mounting screw
now plugging into stator socket you should see .1 to .2 ohms between the 2 poles 9 you can check this in place or out.
IF the stator checks good, and you are using exact same type stator-( which means the old stator matches up with new rotor) you have the choice of;
using old stator-- because sometimes earlier production items are "built" better
using new stator-- and keeping th eold one as a "spare"
Either way good luck.
If seems you are doing this without the manual ( because that has the stator checks in it)- so take your time and ask when not sure.
mike
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,298
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From: Honah Lee
update on progress compensator nut was removes with no tools, that is how loose it was. rotor had been spinning on crankshaft. groves worn into it where it rubbed on spacer on crank and on outside where it rubbed on splined sleve that is part of the compensator. no splines in the rotor i think there was when it was new. will know when the new parts get here. bike has 61, 400 miles on it at this time. has anyone else seen this happen before?
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Aug 21, 2011 at 03:59 PM.
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From: Oxford, Nc
And perhaps for future reference: I lost stators at 19,000, 32,000 and 52,000 miles. The last was almost 2 years ago.
Frustrated to death, I started researching alternatives and this time installed a Compu Fire 3 Phase charging system because I wasn't doing HD parts anymore.
The system is way stronger than stock, rums 13 plus volts at 2000 rpm whether I'm running my heated gear or not, and I'm pushing 40,000 miles on that system thus far.
I'll post if/when I ever have an issue with it. Paid $400 for it through Drag Specialties.
Frustrated to death, I started researching alternatives and this time installed a Compu Fire 3 Phase charging system because I wasn't doing HD parts anymore.
The system is way stronger than stock, rums 13 plus volts at 2000 rpm whether I'm running my heated gear or not, and I'm pushing 40,000 miles on that system thus far.
I'll post if/when I ever have an issue with it. Paid $400 for it through Drag Specialties.
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,298
Likes: 6,323
From: Honah Lee
And perhaps for future reference: I lost stators at 19,000, 32,000 and 52,000 miles. The last was almost 2 years ago.
Frustrated to death, I started researching alternatives and this time installed a Compu Fire 3 Phase charging system because I wasn't doing HD parts anymore.
The system is way stronger than stock, rums 13 plus volts at 2000 rpm whether I'm running my heated gear or not, and I'm pushing 40,000 miles on that system thus far.
I'll post if/when I ever have an issue with it. Paid $400 for it through Drag Specialties.
Frustrated to death, I started researching alternatives and this time installed a Compu Fire 3 Phase charging system because I wasn't doing HD parts anymore.
The system is way stronger than stock, rums 13 plus volts at 2000 rpm whether I'm running my heated gear or not, and I'm pushing 40,000 miles on that system thus far.
I'll post if/when I ever have an issue with it. Paid $400 for it through Drag Specialties.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 07:49 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,547
Likes: 7,153
From: Oxford, Nc
I'm not that knowledgable about electricity, but I understand the difference between single phase vs 3 phase. There are 3 wires, one for each phase coming out from the stator and going into the regulator,( which looks remarkably like the regulatore we ran in the 90's before these big plastic things came out in '98.)
There's a fuse on the heavier duty wire running back to the battery which is protected by a 45 amp fuse.
So I guess all the magic happens in the regulator, taking 3 phases of AC power and converting them into 45 amps of DC. And as I said, remarkably strong system, ( much smaller rotor than the OEM too.)
There's a fuse on the heavier duty wire running back to the battery which is protected by a 45 amp fuse.
So I guess all the magic happens in the regulator, taking 3 phases of AC power and converting them into 45 amps of DC. And as I said, remarkably strong system, ( much smaller rotor than the OEM too.)
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,298
Likes: 6,323
From: Honah Lee
I'm not that knowledgable about electricity, but I understand the difference between single phase vs 3 phase. There are 3 wires, one for each phase coming out from the stator and going into the regulator,( which looks remarkably like the regulatore we ran in the 90's before these big plastic things came out in '98.)
There's a fuse on the heavier duty wire running back to the battery which is protected by a 45 amp fuse.
So I guess all the magic happens in the regulator, taking 3 phases of AC power and converting them into 45 amps of DC. And as I said, remarkably strong system, ( much smaller rotor than the OEM too.)
There's a fuse on the heavier duty wire running back to the battery which is protected by a 45 amp fuse.
So I guess all the magic happens in the regulator, taking 3 phases of AC power and converting them into 45 amps of DC. And as I said, remarkably strong system, ( much smaller rotor than the OEM too.)
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Aug 21, 2011 at 06:35 PM.
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From: hamilton montana
i could not find how to check the stator in my service manual, only how to remove it and install it. but i did check it with an multimeter with info i found on this site. according to what i found here a 45 amp system should read 0.1-0.2 ohms. when i tested this it read 0.5 ohms. my service manual gives me a part number for a electrical manual. the tests i did showed it was not putting out enough volts to charge the battery. so i thought the stator was bad. when i got it apart i found the splines stripped ou of the rotor,so that explained why it was not charging. i put the new stator in with the new rotor it is all back together now and is charging now.
Last edited by nail bender; Aug 21, 2011 at 08:17 PM. Reason: i cant spell for shit
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