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Replacing stator

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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 11:09 AM
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From: hamilton montana
Default Replacing stator

need to replace the stator on my 05 road glide. has anyone used a puller other than the one shown in the service manual to pull the rotor? if so what was it? thank you for any help.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 11:12 AM
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Two bolts screwed into the stator and stong hanger wire with a leather glove. ( Still have it in my toolbox, may I not need it for a long time.)
 
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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 11:26 AM
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Yup- and DO NOT use air impact tools on the compensating sprocket nut ( the magnets can be knocked off of the rotor, damaging the stator.

Always disconnect the battery when in the primary, it is possible to activate the starter motor ( even with the keys in the house) when manipulating the primary drive- which will pluck your fingers off.

mike
 
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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 11:48 AM
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I just used a couple bent wire hooks with eyes bent in them. Use the same hooks for pulling a dash from a car. Once fwd its no problem. Mine cleared inner cover with no problem. It is a big job for a garage mechanic. Check my album. I locked the chain with homemade delrin blocks sawed to fit on a band-saw. Once locked no problem with impact. In fact if you do not have impact and it's locked with red loctite good you had better break it on floor off jack. What I use is just to right in picture. pretty HI TEC. Tape was to pull other picture
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 07:49 AM.
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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 02:20 PM
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update on progress compensator nut was removes with no tools, that is how loose it was. rotor had been spinning on crankshaft. groves worn into it where it rubbed on spacer on crank and on outside where it rubbed on splined sleve that is part of the compensator. no splines in the rotor i think there was when it was new. will know when the new parts get here. bike has 61, 400 miles on it at this time. has anyone else seen this happen before?
 

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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 02:23 PM
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so does that mean the stator is ok, and the rotor was not turning?

you checked the stator with ohm meter?

Mike
 
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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 02:26 PM
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This was on an 05 CVO that I just worked on recently.



Does yours have the 38 amp rotor or the 45 amp rotor? The issue with the one shown above was that he was on a trip and his went out so he had a 38 amp rotor put in because that is all the dealer had on hand. The 45 amp rotor does not use a spacer and the 38 amp rotor does. They installed the 38 amp rotor without a spacer and it did the same thing. The comp nut was also loose as hell because there was no spacer.

Here's a side by side shot of his bad 38 amp rotor and the new 45 amp rotor I installed for him



I also suggest changing all the seals while in there, shifter shaft seal, etc. Doch4m has a great pictorial write up on here to show how he did his on an 03. Click HERE and go to page 3
 
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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 02:29 PM
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I've seen that more times than I should have. The splines on the shaft should be good, ( much stonger metal,) and the rotor should now have none.

On an '05 you can use an impact to tighten it up. It's the '07 and up where HD stopped recommending it.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 02:38 PM
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From: hamilton montana
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Originally Posted by mkguitar
so does that mean the stator is ok, and the rotor was not turning?

you checked the stator with ohm meter?

Mike
i checked thing out with a meter before i took it apart and it was not putting out more than 4 or 5 volts. so i thought the stator was bad. now that it is apart i know the rotor is bad but the stator may be ok. how do i check it with it out of the bike? my wife is on the way back from the dealer with parts now so most likley i will just replace both but it would be nice to know if this stator is still good. if so i will keep it just in case one goes bad later.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 02:43 PM
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From: hamilton montana
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Originally Posted by dawg
This was on an 05 CVO that I just worked on recently.



Does yours have the 38 amp rotor or the 45 amp rotor? The issue with the one shown above was that he was on a trip and his went out so he had a 38 amp rotor put in because that is all the dealer had on hand. The 45 amp rotor does not use a spacer and the 38 amp rotor does. They installed the 38 amp rotor without a spacer and it did the same thing. The comp nut was also loose as hell because there was no spacer.

Here's a side by side shot of his bad 38 amp rotor and the new 45 amp rotor I installed for him



I also suggest changing all the seals while in there, shifter shaft seal, etc. Doch4m has a great pictorial write up on here to show how he did his on an 03. Click HERE and go to page 3
mine has the 45 amp rotor and stator. it is worn just like the one in your photo. looks like this may be another common problem. is the metal on the rotor too soft? where are they made? i am just glad this charging problem happened while i was close to home instead of on the road where it would have cost me much more. hell it is costing enough now with me doing the labor.
 
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