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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 09:57 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by royston
Cheers fellas,
BTW any of you guys tried ripping the cat out of the stock headers or is this a no go, (yet to look),
Cheers
R
Getting rid of the cat out of the stock headers is a simple matter.

I cut a flap right above where the cat is in the header.

Used a 1" hole saw to get most of the cat out...messy stuff.

Then a grinder to get the rest out. Got to get it all, don't want a piece being sucked back up into the cylinder.

Used a vacuum to get all extra material out of the headers.

Laid down a bead about 1/4" tall and 1/4" wide all around the inside wall of where the cat material used to be. (helps a bit with reversion)

Welded the flap back on. With the heat shield on you can't even see any work was ever done.


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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 10:08 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Sam2010
I have 2010 that runs HOT. pipes done that. oil cooler done that. tuning done that and kind of on going experiments.

Does no air cleaner cover help it run cooler?
Not going to see a measurable difference between a stage 1 A/C with a cover vs without one.

If you are still running too hot after what you have done, I would suspect your tune still needs some work.

Also, all oil coolers are not the same.

When I replaced the HD oil cooler with a Jagg fan assisted oil cooler, it brought the temps down 25*!

Kevin
 
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 11:16 PM
  #33  
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Yes i went with Jagg 10 row. Looking at adding the fan. Working on tune.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 11:39 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Captain Itch
I can tell you that one of our Crotch Coolers would really help you out with the Heat felt from
the motor..Here is a link about our product,s... Click Here
+1 on the Crotch Cooler! Great product and well worth the $70! You will NOT regret the purchase!
 
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Old Aug 24, 2011 | 07:10 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by texaswiz
I note that the software that allows the rear cylinder to cut out when at a stop sign does not cut in until oil temp reaches about 278 degrees. That should be your "heads up" that it is time to get moving or park for awhile should the temp get up around 325 degrees or so.
there may happen to be a coincidental correlation between the oil temp and the eitms, (on your bike, might not be the same for others) but the eitms is not dependent on oil temp. it will kick in when the cylinder head temp is 285*

curious as to why you quit using synthetic? i know you said with your riding style, your oil temp doesn't get that hot, but syn has other properties other than higher heat stability.

i think that one of the things that people don't realize is that if you are feeling a lot of heat, then the engine is doing what it's designed to do, shed the heat. before i did the stage 1, i thought my bike was running hot (sure did feel that way to me) so after a hard run one day, i wanted to see just how hot. used a digital thermometer and the oil temp was just over 230*.

now thats not to say that all the things we do to cool things off aren't needed, but these engines do a pretty good job of getting rid of the heat vs holding it inside.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2011 | 11:02 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by bulkman2008
I was seriouly considering trading in my 06 Heritage 88 Twin Cam on a new 103 RK , after hearing about all the heat issues I am not trading mine in on a new bike , thanks to all for the info .
+1 on that. The Road King isn't as hot as the bikes with fairings, but they still run way hotter than an 88. The money you'd spend just to cool off the 103 would set your 06 up nicely with a 95" kit and you'd end up with more horsepower and torque than the cooled off 103.
 
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