Clutch Help
Okay, I'm having an issue trying to adjust the clutch on my '11 RKC. When I get the bike back together and fire it up, the rear wheel slowly begins spinning with the bike in neutral (on a jack, of course). I can stop the wheel with my foot and when I release it again, it slowly starts building up speed again.
I've read the procedure in the manual multiple times, watched numerous videos, read all kinds of clutch threads and can't find the solution for my problem.
I've gone through the clutch adjustment procedure 5 times varying the amount I back out the adjuster rod, cable play, etc.
I haven't tried "Clutch Adjustment - The Easy Way" yet, but before I do, I was wondering if anyone else had this issue and could tell me what is actually wrong.
Do I have too much play? Not enough play? Adjuster rod too tight? Not tight enough? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
I've read the procedure in the manual multiple times, watched numerous videos, read all kinds of clutch threads and can't find the solution for my problem.
I've gone through the clutch adjustment procedure 5 times varying the amount I back out the adjuster rod, cable play, etc.
I haven't tried "Clutch Adjustment - The Easy Way" yet, but before I do, I was wondering if anyone else had this issue and could tell me what is actually wrong.
Do I have too much play? Not enough play? Adjuster rod too tight? Not tight enough? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Okay, I'm having an issue trying to adjust the clutch on my '11 RKC. When I get the bike back together and fire it up, the rear wheel slowly begins spinning with the bike in neutral (on a jack, of course). I can stop the wheel with my foot and when I release it again, it slowly starts building up speed again.
I've read the procedure in the manual multiple times, watched numerous videos, read all kinds of clutch threads and can't find the solution for my problem.
I've gone through the clutch adjustment procedure 5 times varying the amount I back out the adjuster rod, cable play, etc.
I haven't tried "Clutch Adjustment - The Easy Way" yet, but before I do, I was wondering if anyone else had this issue and could tell me what is actually wrong.
Do I have too much play? Not enough play? Adjuster rod too tight? Not tight enough? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
I've read the procedure in the manual multiple times, watched numerous videos, read all kinds of clutch threads and can't find the solution for my problem.
I've gone through the clutch adjustment procedure 5 times varying the amount I back out the adjuster rod, cable play, etc.
I haven't tried "Clutch Adjustment - The Easy Way" yet, but before I do, I was wondering if anyone else had this issue and could tell me what is actually wrong.
Do I have too much play? Not enough play? Adjuster rod too tight? Not tight enough? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
it's not a problem
when the clutch is engaged ( the discs all able to move away from each other) there will be a slight amount of friction, causing the rotation you see. The fact that it does throw your foot into the garage door demonstrates this
mike
when the clutch is engaged ( the discs all able to move away from each other) there will be a slight amount of friction, causing the rotation you see. The fact that it does throw your foot into the garage door demonstrates this
mike
In neutral your clutch adjustment shouldn't matter with what you're seeing. If the clutch is engaging in the right spot (1" or less from the grip) I wouldn't worry about it. The trans fluid's viscosity when cold is leading to the output shaft being turned over.
Most of the bikes I've owned will spin the rear wheel if they're running in neutral.
Most of the bikes I've owned will spin the rear wheel if they're running in neutral.
Agree with those guys plus the oil is probably cold. 1/2 turn out in the derby and a nickle slack where the cable meets the perch when pulling on the cable. Adjust with cold clutch.
My wheels spins in neutral with the correct adjustment. Don't sweat it. If it is grabbing where you are happy with it on the lever, does not have much free play, and engages fully (no slip) then you are good to go.
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I agree with Pete here. Cold oil will certainly create more friction between the separated plates than hot oil. I have found on a cold bike, when doing the final adjustment at the hand lever to allow *barely* a nickel's amount of slack. Maybe even a dime's width, because free play increases as it warms up.
Don't sweat it will spin when jacked up but if you on the bike and it moves then you have a problem try this ride the bike for about an hour then jack it up put it in N start her up. I bet you willl bearly move the back tire.
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