Stripped allen head Help.....

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Oct 3, 2011 | 11:09 PM

#11

bagman1

Grand HDF Member

Joined: Dec 2007

Posts: 4,999

Likes: 55

From: Bay Area

You can get some anti-cam out fluid, they sell it at sears and tool dealers should have it too. Just a dab on the head increases torque grip by 400% and that **** works. Kimball-midwest sells it too. It may not help you tonight though.

Oct 4, 2011 | 03:34 AM

#12

Northside

Road Warrior

Joined: Mar 2007

Posts: 1,396

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From:

I have removed countless socket head cap screws with turned out heads in my job. The best way I found and never had fail is to use a ballbearing! First spray some penetrating oil onto the screw. Aerokroil works best. You put a ball bearing on to the socket head and whack it with a hammer. The impact tends to loosen the screw and will swage enough material back into the socket that an allen wrench will fit tightly again. Make sure you use a perfect allen wrench. If the end is boogered up use either a new one or grind the end till its good. Use plenty of water to keep the wrench cool as you grind it. If the allen wrench slips right into the socket whack it again until the allen wrench needs to be tapped with a hammer to go in. T handles or hand held impact drivers work best. Now give it a twist and the screw should turn right out. I'm serious I have done this for over 30 years and never had to drill one out.

Last edited by Northside; Oct 4, 2011 at 03:36 AM.

Oct 4, 2011 | 08:01 AM

#13

X Iron Butt

Road Master

Joined: Jun 2011

Posts: 974

Likes: 13

From: Chesapeake Virginia

I did the same thing last week. Took a 21/32 drill and slowly drilled the head until I could drive the bolt through with a drift punch breaking the head off. The trick was to not drill all of the way through as it is aluminum after you go through. Do not hit the drift hard, as you get closer to the screw shank it will break off with just a light hit and you won't distort anything. Took about 5 minutes. You can look at the new screws you should have bought to get an idea of how deep you need to go. The first part of drilling goes quick until you get to the bottom of the hex. Second fork came loose right away.

Good Luck

Oct 4, 2011 | 10:34 AM

#14

HalfFast

Road Warrior

Joined: Jan 2010

Posts: 1,570

Likes: 2

From: East Tennessee

Tap the head of the bolt with a ball pien hammer. The allen top will close back up enough to get your wrench into it. The tapping will also help loosen your bolt if it is siezed.

Oct 4, 2011 | 12:08 PM

#15

rg_dave

Outstanding HDF Member

Joined: Nov 2008

Posts: 2,246

Likes: 19

From: Cypress, TX

Tap the head with a hammer. Try using a metric that is slightly larger than the old allen and drive it in. You need to use an impact wrench so that it doesn't spin.

Oct 4, 2011 | 03:26 PM

#16

BBStacker

Outstanding HDF Member

Joined: Apr 2010

Posts: 3,373

Likes: 4

Quote:

Originally Posted by HalfFast

Tap the head of the bolt with a ball pien hammer. The allen top will close back up enough to get your wrench into it. The tapping will also help loosen your bolt if it is siezed.

The bolt the op is referring to is on the bottom of the fork and about 1/2" - 3/4" down inside and not exposed. He couldn't hit it with a hammer if he had to. Although that is a good idea.

Oct 4, 2011 | 05:50 PM

#17

fxstbharley2008

Thread Starter

Tourer

Joined: Jul 2007

Posts: 404

Likes: 0

From: Raleigh, North Carolina

Got it out!

Guys thanks for all the suggestions.
I tried to use an easy out BUT it broke in there (OH NO).
So next I tried to use the impact driver with a straight screwdriver bit. The bit was a bit longer then the screw head so I tried to chisel a place for it.
I think the impact driver helped but did not get it out.
So I put my drill to it and made the allen hole a bit bigger
Then I hammered my larger tork bit in to the allen head and got my wife to hold the leg, used my 1/2" ratchet and it came loose - YES.
Thanks again!