Last winter I installed a Woods TW6 cam into my 07 Ultra and used adjustable pushrods. I used Fuelmoto's adjustable pushrods and also installed woods knight prowler directional lifters for my install. Everything is working fine, except I am hearing excessive ticking from my rocker boxes especially around 2700 rpm.

I followed the instructions that came with the pushrods as well as the information in my maintenance manual, plus I gathered a few instructional methods from this forum when doing the pushrod adjustment. I think the pushrod adjustment was the hardest part of my cam swap; imo.

Can someone please provide me with a step by step procedure on how to perform the adjustment? Please include how to find top dead center, which cylinder to start with, which pushrod to adjust first (intake / exhaust), bleed down, etc. I plan on doing the adjustment again in order to take the "slop" out of the pushrods and quiet down the ticking...

Thanks in advance,

Scott

 

This is an awesome video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5KvamRqCis

 

THANKS!!!! This Video Sums it up perfectly!!

 

I watched the whole thing the other day and was quite impressed how well he took the time to explain it and show you exactly what to do.

 

Now I've seen how its done... I know that I can do the job myself instead of bleeding $$$ at the dealer. Thank for the excellant post!

 

The video is very informative and the main take away should be that a valve lifter must be on the heel/base circle of the cam for proper pushrod adjustment. However, finding overlap on one cylinder to adjust the other can be confusing for the first timer. Doesn't matter which pushrod to start with; just pick one and get that cylinder at, or near,TDC on the compression stroke which will position the lifter on the heel (base circle) of the cam. Stuff a shop rag in the spark plug hole and rotate the motor with the rear wheel (trans in high gear). When the rag pops out, the piston is coming up on the compression stroke. You can use a plastic straw in the plug hole to tell when the piston is at TDC, which, as previously stated should postion the lifter on the heel of the cam. If you leave the cam chest cover off, you can look past the cam plate and see the llifter/cam contact; this is the best way to insure that pushrod is ready for adjustment. Then you can adjust the pushrods.

If you are getting some ticking, you might try an additional 1/4-1/2 turn for a bit more preload.

You mentioned the Woods lifters. When new, they come loaded with a lightweight machine oil and they will bleed down quickly. I have adjusted those lifters, when new, and they bled down while adjusting. However, once primed with 20W50 motor oil, bleed down can take 30-45 minutes. It is important that you let them bleed down to the point you can rotate the pushrod between your thumb and finger. If you don't allow complete bleed down, you can kiss a piston with a valve and then you have other problems.

 

Great video, I'm doing cam work this winter, and have been torn about doing it myself or taking it to the shop. I'm a very good with hot rod engines but still learn with these.

 

This was in my opinion one of the best instructional videos that I have seen. Thank you for posting!

 

Great video, thanks for posting.

I like djl's idea of leaving the cam chest cover off.

 

Probably the best video on the web...when it comes to cam installation.