The problem might not be your pushrod adjustment. Valve train noise is something that is difficult if not impossible to find a solve. You found the right video for pushrod adjustment and I hope that works. Beyond that you might be looking at shiming rocker arms, using different lifters, using a different cam...The list goes on. Expensive to solve and there is no guarantee you will.

 

That video saved me hundreds in installation costs. Definitely appreciated and made me buy a bunch of stuff I otherwise would have passed on due to the effort. Easiest install I've done in a long while

 

Here's a generic method that will work on any 4-stroke pushrod type engine, whether HD, Honda, Ford, Chevy, etc.

Remove the spark plugs so you can turn the engine over easily and also so you can see into the cylinder.

Rotate the engine while observing the lifter travel relative to piston travel.

As the piston approaches TDC it can be either the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke.

If it's the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve will be closing and the intake valve will be opening as the piston approaches TDC. You will make this determination by observing the lifter travel as noted above.

If it's the compression stroke, both valves will be in the closed position as the piston approaches TDC. Again, you will make this determination by observing the lifter travel as noted above.

TDC of the compression stroke is where the lifters are on the cam's base circle and where you want to adjust the pushrods.

A few degrees either way from true TDC won't make any difference, so simply visually verifying TDC is close enough.

Simply repeat this process for each cylinder and you can do them in any sequence you want.

As for the video, I also agree that it is very well done and anyone who has never done a cam replacement and is considering doing it could benefit from seeing it.

The only things I would add is:

Like djl said in an earlier post, I also prefer the TDC/compression stroke rather than the opposite cylinder overlap method shown on the video to get the cams on the base circle. Either will work just as effectively so it's really just a matter of personal preference.

Another thing I noticed on the video that wasn't explained thoroughly is that when you apply the loctite to the fasteners, be sure the male and female threads of the joint are free from any oils and clean them with solvent if necessary. He did mention this quickly for the crankshaft screw but nowhere else. If there is any oil on the threads the loctite will not be as effective.

And finally, another personal preference, I like to take the extra time to remove the rocker boxes and pushrods rather than cutting the stock pushrods; and then re-using the stock (or other fixed length) pushrods in lieu of adjustables. I simply do not see any advantage to adjustable pushrods other than the time/labor saving. From a mechanical perspective, I'll take fixed length pushrods over adjustables any day.

Good luck

 

Scott,

I am experiencing the same ticking above about 2500 rpm. Did your adjustments remedy this problem? If so, what exactly did you do?

Thanks,

Buz

 

Agree on fixed length over adjustables but sometimes valve train stack up will required adjustables or a set of custom fixed length; custom gets expensive.