There is NO other way to confirm the AFR. If the motor is gonna blow from a WOT run on a dyno...I would rather find out then & there not on a 2K mile trip. The EFI calibrations from the factory are not what I would take for granted. They are lean & not setup for the after market pipes & air cleaners that most will install. The bikes with the cats are the most feared IMO as that **** will wear down over time from heat & potentially could be sucked back into the motor from reversion. The auto tune setups completed by a competent user will get you most of the way there, but at a minimum I still would at least get a base run done to assure the AFR is in the park.

JMO

 

A dyno tune from a quality, reputable operator is the best way to get maximum power, efficiency, and reliability out of your motor. If you take the time to learn the Mastertune software, you can probably get yourself within 10% of a pro's values.

There is no additional wear and tear on a motor from tuning. Unless you're one of those guys who rides 2,000 miles a year and never sees the fun side of 3,500 RPM.

 

A dyno tune from a quality, reputable operator is the best way to get maximum power, efficiency, and reliability out of your motor. If you take the time to learn the Mastertune software, you can probably get yourself within 10% of a pro's values.

There is no additional wear and tear on a motor from tuning. Unless you're one of those guys who rides 2,000 miles a year and never sees the fun side of 3,500 RPM.

 

Never thought that much about it, had my bike dyno tuned just after the 103 build. I had 4k miles on the bottom end and the tuner said they would seat the rings before it got really pushed. Never seen a complete dyno tune but got the impression that wot runs were a very small portion of the over all tune. Am I wrong?

Looking at a new Limited and was going to go stage 1 with a aftermarket head pipe. Was planning on having it dyno tuned with a sest. Not doing for performance just heat management. Performance gains are a bonus.

 

Autotune is no where near as good as a properly done dyno tune. The wide band o2 sensros just are not accurate enough. I will say that they get half way close, I have tuned quit a few bikes that had PCV's with autotune, and Thundermax with autotune and have improved every single one, not just overall numbers but fuel economy and overall rideability as well. Even Power Commander advises to have a bike dynotuned when running the autotune.

For those that think a Dyno puts to much wear and tear on a bike, I would have to disagree, riding a bike that is out of tune is alot harder on a bike than running it on a dyno. I did have one let go of me once, out of the thousands of bikes i've tuned. A piston broke, but I was only at around 4000 RPM's on my first pass when it let go, so IMO it was just a metter of time before it would've let go on the street, and it probably would've wrecked the LADY that rides it because the wheel locked up.

 

But what you say is too logical! Your experience can't possibly mean you know what you're talking about!

 

IMO, a big waste of money & way to hard on engine & drive train.

 

I like the dyno. I just ordered the PV so I can store 3 different tunes. All 3 tunes will come from being dyno'd

 

Just wondering where those who claim a dyno run adds 5k miles or a year's worth of riding are pulling those numbers from.

I would think that if a motor failed while being dynoed, that it was just going to be failing soon on the street.

 

I had work done on my RKC which included getting a PC V with map pre-loaded for my very standard upgrades (TW6-6, SE A/C V&H Dresser Duals and Jackpots). This all came from a very reputable source. Professionally fitted and fired up ran ok but didn't quite seem exactly right. Put it on the dyno and found that the AFR between 2500 and 3000 was over 16:1 (and from 3500 to redline was 10:1). How long would that engine have lasted on that fuel map? Dyno didn't just give me more power it saved my a meltdown.