Here are a couple of graphs with the SE 254e (warranty friendly) cams installed on a 2012 FLHTK 103 with Rush (ceramic coated inside & outside) true dual head pipes and the Rush mufflers with 2" baffles. Also installed is the Ness Big Sucker A/C kit and a TTS. The build and dyno tune was done by Doc's Performance Tuning.

I was looking at the FM Jackpot head pipe and the Rush true duals. The Rush TD's made more low end torque then the Jackpot pipe. So for this build I went with the Rush. And did not want to wait 6-8 weeks for a Jackpot pipe, and longer for the ceramic pipe.

I have never used the SE 255 but I can tell you the 254e has nice low end torque and great mid range torque. Cruising in 6th gear is where the stock 103 fell flat on it's face. With the 254e you will never be required to down shift at cruising speeds in 6th gear for more power.

I have found this to be a smooth, quiet running setup ideal for touring.

Brake-in is all about seating the piston rings. Brake it in by the book, the rings are sure not to fully seal. Here is a pic of one of the pistons removed from my engine that has 8500 miles on it. I broke it in a little harder than the HD manual suggests. Note, the top ring never fully sealed. The engine builder told me this piston looks better then most he sees. The pistons were removed to install a 103 big bore kit. For more on brake-in check here.

 

Thanks for the graphs on the 254e's being a visual guy, that helps. Now I can look at 255's and compare. I am thinking jackpot or full sack 2-1-2, thought being, after doing a little forum worming that threre is some benefit to the scavenging effect of 2-1-2. Yet I'm sure there are many discussions on the pros and cons of both.
So it sounds like I should have the cat removed (or new header) along with a/c and tuner done before pick up, then cam,? but wait to have it dynoed until after break in.

 

Thanks for the graphs on the 254e's being a visual guy, that helps. Now I can look at 255's and compare. I am thinking jackpot or full sack 2-1-2, thought being, after doing a little forum worming that threre is some benefit to the scavenging effect of 2-1-2. Yet I'm sure there are many discussions on the pros and cons of both.
So it sounds like I should have the cat removed (or new header) along with a/c and tuner done before pick up, then cam,? but wait to have it dynoed until after break in.

 

I would ride it stock for awhile and see how you like it. You may decide it is fine, just the way it is.

Bone stock here and enjoying the hell out of it! I have never experienced any "heat" issues, it sounds great to me, and I have plenty of power on my 96 cu. 2011 RK.

 

Electra Glide CLASSIC...in black. Save thousands and very easy to make tour pack detachable.

 

Try and find a good used Ultra, Harley doesn't stand by their stuff, and New stuff quality stinks.. Just read what people are saying on new bikes..

 

The Rush true duals produced more low end torque and power than the Jackpot pipes in this package. The downside to the Rush true duals is they hang a little lower and will tend to scrape earlier with aggravate corning.

 

Very Nice picture, Sweet ride dswansbiker!

 

I purchase a 2010 Ultra Classic in Feb of 2011 from a private seller. It had 1300 miles on it. I gave 19K cash for it. It had the stage 1 with SERT, luggage rack on the tour pac, highyway pegs & extra chrome here & there. I feel like I did pretty good going that route. I have sence added the quick detatch kit for the tour pac. This is a must for when not ridding two up. You wont believe how much more nimble the bike feels with the 40 or so lbs taken off the top. As far as having the extras done at purchase,, dont do it! You mentioned you are a old wrench, have a manual thrown in one of the bags with the bike. They are very good manuals! Very detailed. You will be surprised how easy most things you want to do will be to do yourself. You can even do your own tune for the stage 1 in most cases if you are just looking for a canned map. My advice to you is do all the work you can yourself. You will be hard pressed to find any techs at any dealer to do as good a job with anything on your bike as you could do yourself, plus its a great way to get familiar with your bike. As far as tuners go. I may be wrong, but its my understanding that the SEPRT (screaming eagle pro race tuner) is no longer available. What they are selling now is the Screaming Eagle Street Tuner. The street tuner does not allow whoever tunes your bike nearly as many parameters as the race tuner did. If it were me, I would consider the TTS tuner over the street tuner. There is a sticky thread in the tech section of this forum titled "5 questions to ask your tuner" Look that over before you have anyone tune your bike. Talk to all the locals in your area for advice on who does the best tune/dyno work if you choose to go that way. I have found the best tuners dont always work for the dealers. As far as the RK goes, they are GREAT bikes! I would love to own one for shorter rides and ridding alone, but you mentioned your wife will be ridding with you alot of the time. She will not be nearly as happy on the RK as she will the Ultra or Limited. Other posts in this thread have mentioned the difference in the Ultra & Limited. To me the chrome wheels are a big plus because the Ultra wheels do not even have a clear coat on them, making them much harder to clean. The ABS is great, the security system I could take or leave. The heated grips to me is nothing I would walk across the street for. When you start to buy add ons for what ever you choose check out Zanotti Mtr Comp. out of Penn. Create an account online & you will save yourself alot of money on any parts. They have great costomer service as well. Hope some of this has help! Lets Ride!

 

I chose Jackpot headers and also their tuned 3 1/2" slipons. I wanted to keep the stock look yet gain the performance and reduced heat. I'm very happy I decideed to go with this combo. The bike also has a PC-V, SE air cleaner with stock cover and the woods .555 cams.

I skipped on the extended warrentee, rode the bike stock for a couple thousand miles, then performed the mods. I was able to do the work myself.
When shopping for a bike , some dlrs. told me they would only warrentee H.D. parts some said they would cover anything they installed .
I felt that if the bike made it through the break in period then it would be just fine so I didn't care if I voided the warentee with aftermarket parts, besides the law is on my side if I didn't cause the problem.
As for stereo, I went with Hog Tunes, speakers and amp. Now half the fun of riding is listening to music.

How does it run?
Recently we took about a week to visit Crater Lake,Or. While crossing over the Cascades with two up fully loaded bike I was at the end of a long string of vehicles going up a serious grade (guessing5-6%) dropping it into 4th gear and WOT shift into 5th and as we reached the summit and the end of the passing lane the damn thing was bumping 100mph.