Yeah, I am sure it depends on tire shape.

I have Metzler ME880 200 wide radial on the back right now. The wobble was very hard to induce, then I checked my tire pressures and pumped them from 32 to 38 where I normally run them. She wobbles like a bowl of jelly when I rode her today.

I am putting them back to 32 and seeing if that fixes it.

 

Definitely not gone in the 2009 and up frame, but it is reduced quite a bit, you can probably drop the “death” part, but the wobble is still there. It does not just wobble on long sweepers, it also occurs on some straight freeways once you get up to speed, there is one concrete freeway not far from my home where it happens every time. Not a threatening thing, but it will get your attention. I don’t know that I need to spend hundreds of dollars to fix it. I do think Harley should fix it once and for all.

ADDED:
Quote from KingKingKing
Yeah, I am sure it depends on tire shape.

I have Metzler ME880 200 wide radial on the back right now. The wobble was very hard to induce, then I checked my tire pressures and pumped them from 32 to 38 where I normally run them. She wobbles like a bowl of jelly when I rode her today.

I am putting them back to 32 and seeing if that fixes it.


I should also point out since I started using the Dunlop SP5000 tire on the rear the wobble has reduced quite a bit and the bike feels more stable, but the wobble is not gone completely.

 

Here is my experience:
Wife and I rented a 2009 FLHT in Seattle, and after a few days we stopped by HD Redding CA to have the air pressure checked in the rear suspension. It only had 16 psi air pressure. Then the HD technician set it to 25 and the wobble I was getting used to went away.

Riding along the coast didn't trigger the wobbling with only 16 psi, but HWY299 in late afternoon conditions did

In the Alps we have many winding roads and I don't feel any wobble when I set my rear suspension to 25 psi and ride with a passenger. So perhaps simply a soft rear suspension can become annoying with the new frame.

I'm happy with the (new) tires, but I keep 36 psi up front and 40.5 in the rear.
So my question is: how and when can this device come into action when proper settings seem to do the job? I might have grey hair, but I'm never far behind...

 

Read my post #17. If you are happy with your ride, ride on! Proper settings do for many, but not for everyone. On the other hand, if you get a chance to ride a bike with a True-Track fitted, grab it. You may just find yourself won over! It's the only way to travel....

What hair I have left is also grey and my wife and I rode through the Alps from Slovenia to Austria, also the Vosges in France last May. Thinking of riding into Northern Italy next June.

 

I'm willing to get one if I understand how well it performs. Does it make the bike stiffer coming out of curves at full throttle or does it compensate the instability of the suspension when you have 140 hp?
Wife and I rode the bike between 2500 and 4000 rpm going up a series of hairpin curves, I pushed it to its max and the limitation came from the rubbing of the foot-boards rather than by shimmy in the suspension. This was officially "the end of the 'break-in' period".

 

The engine/trans are mounted in the frame at four points, one either side of the front of the motor, the others behind each passenger footboard mounting. There is a stabilizer on the front head. The swingarm is mounted off the rear of the trans, so the contact point of the rear tyre is a fair distance away from the rear mounts. The True-Track kit provides a stabilizer close to those rear rubber mounts. It allows the engine/trans to vibrate in the vertical plane, but prevents it moving sideways.

As you ride along on a stock bike, the wheel can deflect to one side or the other, due to changes in the road surface, bumps etc. So even when riding along in a straight line with a T-T kit installed, those small deflections are substantially reduced. The bike tracks in a much straighter line, with greater precision, giving much better feel through the handlebars. As speed increases, that stability becomes even more noticable.

We don't need a lot of power to ride into a long curve at speed. But hitting a ripple or bump can be pretty unpleasant, something the T-T will largely prevent. Riding at speed on winding fast roads is greatly improved. Riding into tight Alpine hairpins doesn't require any speed at all, but it does call for precision placing of the bike and faithful changes to the handlebars on some of those severe changes of gradient and camber!

You won't ride those hairpins any faster with a T-T, but you will ride through them with greater comfort and confidence in your bike. If you just happen to have 140HP on tap, you will be even happier still!

Hope that helps!

 

Now this is music to my ears; thank you Sir
Do we really have to pay VAT + duty on the $400 considering this is for our safety? I guess it's time to go abroad and do some shopping.

 

It's a pleasure! And I'm afraid so. Tell them you are a member of HDF and you may get a discount.

 

I would think all Touring bikes have it (bagger wobble), to some extent. It's inherent in the design of the engine/trans/swingarm mounting system.

Granted, there are other suspension considerations that can influence the wobble we're talking about, i.e., tires, shocks, steering head adjustment, etc., but for the sake of this discussion let's focus on the drive train mounting system.

Is it a design flaw? I don't think you can really say that. HD Touring bikes are not sport bikes and should not be expected to handle like one. All designs have compromises built-in that will improve one characteristic or another while sacrificing a little with some other characteristic. Finding an acceptable balance between all of the necessary compromises, to achieve the desired end result, is one of a designers main challenges. The phenomenon we're talking about here is simply the result of one of those design compromises as it relates to the handling, comfort, and cost of the HD Touring bike.

Did HD get it wrong? Some think yes, some think no, some have no opinion on the matter. Again, it's the compromise that makes some happy and others not so happy. Nothing is perfect!

For every rider that is bothered by the "wobble", there are probably hundreds who have never even experienced it, don't know what it is, or simply accept it. Riding style is a major influencing factor. The faster and more aggresively you ride, especially through turns, the more likely you are to experience the "wobble". Many riders of touring bikes never see speeds greater than the speed limits and are therefore less likely experience any significant wobble.

Are their better designs possible or are there modifications that can be made to eliminate or minimize the wobble we're discussing? Absolutely!

Is it necessary that every bike for every rider on the road have this better design or modification incorporated? Absolutely not?

All-n-all, I think HD did a pretty good job with the Touring bikes.

Am I completely happy with the handling of my bike? No.

Have I ever experienced the "bagger wobble"? Yes.

Is there a handling upgrade in my future? Probably.

True-Track? Maybe.

But I'm also considering Glide-Pro, Sta-Bo, or even something that I may fabricate myself.

My experience is with the newer '09 and later frame. I understand, not so much from experience - but rather from discussion here and other research, that the 'bagger wobble" is more prevalent on the pre '09 frames. My opinions expressed herein are as they relate to the newer framed models.

 

Sorry Not buying it.

These stabalizers on a 09 and after is a bunch of BS inspired by the manufacturer to pimp their wares.

Keep drinking the cool aid, but nothing will displace becoming familiar with your bikes idiocyncracies and rider skill.

Bolt on want-to-be fixes just instills a level of competence that may not exist and get people hurt.

How many accidents has True track caused by this misguided rationale.

It is all about throttle controll, Brake Control and Streering.