dont feel bad.. my bike already put away for winter till April 2012...

 

I put the 3-3's on my bike , broke them in , set the sag , adjusted the compression and they were way better than the Progressives or Ricor I ran in the past , I thought it couldn't be any better , I was wrong , the wife and I went on a 3 day trip , I was feeling lazy so I didn't reset the sag for her and I , I simply reached down and stiffened the compression 2 clicks , we left and it was like riding on air , I could not believe the difference , my wife asked what I had done different it was so smooth , now I'm going to check the sag with her and I and readjust it for solo , I thought it was perfect but found out it can be even better

 

That's exactly how it worked out for me too. I didn't go back and change 1 up though cause I prefer the suspension a little firmer since I ride a little more spirited when I'm by myself. Either way its still just an amazing ride. Nothin' but Ohlins in my future.

 

I've found that the difference in sag between solo and 2-up is about 9 full turns of the adjuster, and one click less on the sweep valve. Over the dark side of the moon that the Virginia side of the DC Beltway is, my wife and I can float over it in absolute comfort.

I've spent all week riding solo with the 2-up setting and it's beating the hell out of me. I'll try playing with the sweep valves to see if that helps.

 

so you saying with the Ohlins 3-3, we need to adjust when solo or two up ? - would the same hold true for the 6's ? i would like to see photos on s SG with the Ohlins if possible and what u adjust on them... got to drive to florida in spring to pick them up though !!
Is howard at Laconia or Americade rallies ?

 

I'll take that advise, mine should be here next week #2-#2A

 

on the way in 5 min.!

 

It depends, ride comfort is just as subjective as the sound of an exhaust, everyone has their own criteria for ideal suspension characteristics. Depending on your individual and combined weight of your passenger, and your riding style, you may require two seperate preload and dampner settings, or you may be able to get away with one preload and just change the dampner setting. Either way you will have to spend some time setting up to find your sweet spot. As far as adjusting, there are three adjustments, spring preload with a spanner collar on top the spring, the sweep valve, a finger twist **** on the bottom of the housing, which is a married compression and rebound fluid circuit, and on the 3-3s a 1/2" overall length adjustment on the lowwer rod eye. The 6s would require tuning also. The great thing about buying from Howard, besides a generous discount to forum members, he will coach you through it and he makes himself available via phone 7 days a week far beyond what most would call normal business hours. You don't have to drive to Florida to pick them up, He'll ship them to you, pretty quickly too.

 

>>> (ordered them yesterday)

<<< Your shocks are gone today with the others.

>>> (ride as good)

<<< **Unfortunately the #3~#3 ride better than many here who do not spend the time to properly adjust them. Some members listen and understand how these shocks work.

First: We have 1,200 springs but only one spring is right for you. There is no heavy, light or other duty spring. The spring plays no other purpose other than hold the bike up (overcome gravity), that's it!

Second: The external adjustable valving allows you to add or subtract resistance to suit your personal needs. The full stroke is the actual movement the shocks has. Think it as time. Time to stop before you bottom out (compression) and time so the shock goes back to your original riders sag (rebound).

As every one knows that I developed the riders sag to be 1/3rd of the stroke. This means when your wheel goes into a depression the tire hugs the pavement to keep traction. This mission can not be completed if the swingarm, tire, and wheel can not drop down weightlessly. The wheel move but the frame does not. We make racing shocks only, and that is what racing shocks do, provide traction. Some say that they can ride faster and feel much more confident at higher speed, others say that the bike rides smooth. All are correct. If you understand the principle and execute the settings, you too can experience great suspension.

fabrik8r, '05Train, and many others take the time to understand great suspension and execute the manpower needed to achieve the results. You first must need to know how to feel what is the correct setting for your current application and understand how to adjust for your exact now condition.

Is there a different setting for pool table smooth highways as well as back country broken road and also a twisting switch back road. When you add weight such as a passenger and luggage, the process changes again. It is up to you what you get out of your Ohlins product.

I personally build each shock for my customers, a $350 service if you search the internet, you will find many who do that service. Maybe that may be part of it.

 

So what kind of discount are we talking about that the forum members recieve? The #3 line look to run $1000, A little steep for most.
I've also seen were one person recommended the 3-3 for a street glide, wouldn't the 3-1 (12") or 3-2 (12 19/32" to 13 ") be closer to the lower stock stance of the street glides 12" shock?
My backs not getting any better and the stock shocks seem fine, but I could see in the future getting some Ohlins just to see. I put Progressives on my softail because just like the Ohlins everone said they were great. I thought they were a little worse but did lower my bike so I kept them on. Paying this kind of money I want to be sure I have the correct setup.