Clutch Adjustment Question
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Joined: May 2006
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Clutch Adjustment Question
I just completed my first 20k service on my 2001 FLHT Standard. I used Redline products in all 3 holes. Primary chain was in spec so no adjustment needed there. I adjusted the clutch per the OEM manual. I noticed on my test drive the clutch releases a little farther out or engages a little earlier since the adjustment. I guess that would make sense with the adjustment?? Before I made the adjustment I was getting a clunk when i go into first from neutral and getting slight clunks on gears 3,4 and 5. I was hoping the adjustment would improve this but it did not. I'm an experienced rider so i know there can sometimes be a sweet spot that you can find with the throttle and clutch when shifting to avoid the clunk but i have not been able to thus far. I have only had the bike a couple weeks. I bought the bike from my brother who lives 2400 miles away. He has owned it since new and said when the clutch is adjusted correctly it shifts as smooth as butter. What do you guys think. BTW the manual says to tighten the clutch till you feel friction then back off 1/2 to 1 turn. I went 1/2. Any suggestions??
Last edited by noserider; Nov 2, 2011 at 10:54 PM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Glendale AZ
Your alreadty doing all you can. The clunk lightens up but Harley trannies have always been clunky and the sooner you make peace with that and accept that its doing what its supposed to you'll be able to enjoy it more. Once you've adjusted to manual spec's cold....that's it.
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,066
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From: Central Coast CA
If you go to 3/4 of a turn on the adjustment you will get the clutch back further in towards the grip for the engaging area. Also riding down the freeway romp on it in 5th gear and see if you get any slip, this will mean you need to back off further than a half a turn also. Then when you adjust the cable pull on the cable out of the perch you should be able to slip a dime or so in how much you pull out of the perch. Sound like you doing good man, she is going to clunk. Overfilling the the primary can also make it difficult to find neutral so tuner her at or a little below it is all splash oiling so level is not that critical on level.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 683
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From: Florida
Are you using that Redline Shockproof in the tranny? I've heard that stuff will quiten down the clunk. But it's so thick if its real cold climate then sometimes it can be hard to shift with it.
Sounds like you have the clutch adjusted ok. This is how I do mine. I take all the slack out of the cable.
The I break loose the locking nut on the clutch and back it out.
The I back the adjusting bolt out about a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn just to make sure it's away from the clutch.
Then squeeze the clutch handle all the way in so it's up against the grip, and use my left hand to gently (barely pressing enough to) hold the clutch handle against the grip.
Then with my right hand, (while gently hold the clutch handle with my left) I turn the clutch adjustment screw slowly back in until I see/feel the clutch handle 'just' start to move away from the grips.
I then back the adjusting screw out 1/2 turn and and while still holding the adjuster nut with the Tee hex, I tighten the locking nut with a good rap on the offset box end wrench with my rubber mallet.
I then take the slack back out of the cable, and then squeeze the clutch handle 3 times to let the throwout bearing ***** seat in their ramps.
Then make sure you leave a small bit of gap between the clutch handle and when it grabs so the throw out bearing is fully disengaged when the clutch is not pulled.
Sounds like you have the clutch adjusted ok. This is how I do mine. I take all the slack out of the cable.
The I break loose the locking nut on the clutch and back it out.
The I back the adjusting bolt out about a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn just to make sure it's away from the clutch.
Then squeeze the clutch handle all the way in so it's up against the grip, and use my left hand to gently (barely pressing enough to) hold the clutch handle against the grip.
Then with my right hand, (while gently hold the clutch handle with my left) I turn the clutch adjustment screw slowly back in until I see/feel the clutch handle 'just' start to move away from the grips.
I then back the adjusting screw out 1/2 turn and and while still holding the adjuster nut with the Tee hex, I tighten the locking nut with a good rap on the offset box end wrench with my rubber mallet.
I then take the slack back out of the cable, and then squeeze the clutch handle 3 times to let the throwout bearing ***** seat in their ramps.
Then make sure you leave a small bit of gap between the clutch handle and when it grabs so the throw out bearing is fully disengaged when the clutch is not pulled.
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Thanks guys. Yes I'm using redline with shockproof. My bro ran all dino so I thought i would switch it over to synth and see how it does. I did leave about a dime gap in the adjustment on the cable adjustment. Neutral was no problem before i adjusted and is still easy to find. I took my time since it was my first time to wrench on a Harley and found it very enjoyable and straight forward once I had all the right tools. Crazy to pay a dealer to do this part of the service. Great way to get to know your bike and have a good look at everything not to mention the peace of mind in knowing it was done correctly. Great to have you experienced guys on here to help the newbs like me out. Oh and the clunk is not real bad. I just want to make sure i have it tuned the best possible. I can live with the rest.
Cheers
Cheers
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,826
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From: Cookson, Ok
You obviously did the right thing since you don't have any problem finding neutral. That is usually the sure sign that something isn't right.
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Joined: May 2006
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Cool good to know thanks. Once I get a couple hundred miles with the new fluids I'll see how it feels. Does seem a little strange already that the clutch does not disengage till close to 3/4 travel but again it's not like it's at the end of the lever release. Any ballpark specs on when that should occur with clutch lever travel distance before disengagment.
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Road Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 992
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From: Arizona
I installed the AIM Variable Pressure Clutch and now can't use a box end wrench to tighten the locking nut. Do any of you know where I can get a deep socket with an open end so I can slide the Tee hex down and has slots on the side of the socket so I can tighten with a wrench, sort of like a spark plug socket but in 11/16??
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 860
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From: southbury connecticut
your clutch lever sounds about where mine was after i adjusted mine,also a 1/2 turn out on the adjuster nut, i drag the clutch alot at slow speed turning in parking lots, i liked it low but its better the way it is now. you will get used to it,