should I change cams
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Maryland near DC
should I change cams
I have a 11 flhrc and I am considering changeing the cams from stock to maybe 255s ...103 motor,pcv, stage one....the bike makes tons of power...I weigh 150, wifey 125....mostly in town, some touring but not a ton...so I am wondering is how much a loss of economy??? is it really worth doing ?? I am really up in the air here, the bike runs great now and gets good gas mileage...also I am somewhat concerned with the reliability/ longevity of the motor after the change out...
Last edited by mrfikser; Nov 5, 2011 at 10:06 AM.
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 254
Likes: 24
From: Texas
If you want "tons more power". Yes go for it! The S&S 510's in my 103 eliminated all valve chatter, increased the torque curve and puts it where you need it, and just make the bike more of a pleasure to ride. Moving more fuel/air mix and a good tune makes it run cooler too. With the auto compression release, it starts real easy.
I can run 55 mph in 6th with no valve noise. I don't, but I can. One up normal cruising I get 43 mpg. Two up and loaded on the highway, running 70-80 mph, I get 38 mpg.
Replacing the cheap Chinese stock cam bearings and a good cam will only increase longevity.
I can run 55 mph in 6th with no valve noise. I don't, but I can. One up normal cruising I get 43 mpg. Two up and loaded on the highway, running 70-80 mph, I get 38 mpg.
Replacing the cheap Chinese stock cam bearings and a good cam will only increase longevity.
The stock cam bearings are good quality INA bearings, made in Germany.
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 254
Likes: 24
From: Texas
http://www.dannyscycleshop.com/
We put in Torringtons with the cam swap.
Regardless of cam bearings, changing cams is a good idea, especially from a performance standpoint. The stock cams are designed without any overlap, which significantly cuts back on exhaust scavenging. Good for emissions, bad for performance. Add a little duration and overlap to the stock cams, and you'd easily pick up 5 to 10 hp without doing anything else. (Andrews 21 cams are a good example of a stock-type cam grind).
The moco has done quite a bit of work for us in recent years: the big bore kit and stroker crank is standard now, the heads have been upgraded over the years with better valve springs and have been made to flow better. In years past, we had to do all that ourselves. Now, all we need is cams, intake and exhaust, and a good tune, and we can easily make 90+ hp and over 100 ft lbs torque. If your stage I upgrades are already in place, all that remains is to pick a decent set of cams, and get the bike tuned.
The moco has done quite a bit of work for us in recent years: the big bore kit and stroker crank is standard now, the heads have been upgraded over the years with better valve springs and have been made to flow better. In years past, we had to do all that ourselves. Now, all we need is cams, intake and exhaust, and a good tune, and we can easily make 90+ hp and over 100 ft lbs torque. If your stage I upgrades are already in place, all that remains is to pick a decent set of cams, and get the bike tuned.
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Not according to my Indy. Not the ones in my 2012 103ci EC anyway. But you can give him a call at Danny's Cycles.
http://www.dannyscycleshop.com/
We put in Torringtons with the cam swap.
http://www.dannyscycleshop.com/
We put in Torringtons with the cam swap.
People look at the caged INA bearings and the full complement Torringtons, and think that the full roller bearings must be better made, but that's just not the case. In fact, caged bearings are more expensive to manufacture, and are designed for higher rpm applications. The biggest problem with the caged bearings is that they're more easily damaged, and if that happens, they can fail. If you swap cams frequently, the full complement bearings are better suited.
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Thread Starter
|
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,488
Likes: 30
From: Maryland near DC
Regardless of cam bearings, changing cams is a good idea, especially from a performance standpoint. The stock cams are designed without any overlap, which significantly cuts back on exhaust scavenging. Good for emissions, bad for performance. Add a little duration and overlap to the stock cams, and you'd easily pick up 5 to 10 hp without doing anything else. (Andrews 21 cams are a good example of a stock-type cam grind).
The moco has done quite a bit of work for us in recent years: the big bore kit and stroker crank is standard now, the heads have been upgraded over the years with better valve springs and have been made to flow better. In years past, we had to do all that ourselves. Now, all we need is cams, intake and exhaust, and a good tune, and we can easily make 90+ hp and over 100 ft lbs torque. If your stage I upgrades are already in place, all that remains is to pick a decent set of cams, and get the bike tuned.
The moco has done quite a bit of work for us in recent years: the big bore kit and stroker crank is standard now, the heads have been upgraded over the years with better valve springs and have been made to flow better. In years past, we had to do all that ourselves. Now, all we need is cams, intake and exhaust, and a good tune, and we can easily make 90+ hp and over 100 ft lbs torque. If your stage I upgrades are already in place, all that remains is to pick a decent set of cams, and get the bike tuned.
Big Kahuna HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 20,530
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From: texas panhandle
If you change the cams, you will loose some control over your throttle.