Bars came loose
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 351
Likes: 2
Bars came loose
So I Just finished the install of my wo576 bars. All controls and everything are working and bars look great. One problem is I test rode and bars are a lil loose and pulled down. Is there a way I can get to the back screws to tighten them without pulling the bars off the bike. It is a 2011 streetglide. If I slide the radio back The trim that is right below the radio faceplate sits right above the bolts. They are torq its so Ballend allens are not an option. Is there a way I can loosen the fairing to get a torx down in there or am I gonna have to pull the whole bar setup again
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,788
Likes: 5
From: Tennessee
So I Just finished the install of my wo576 bars. All controls and everything are working and bars look great. One problem is I test rode and bars are a lil loose and pulled down. Is there a way I can get to the back screws to tighten them without pulling the bars off the bike. It is a 2011 streetglide. If I slide the radio back The trim that is right below the radio faceplate sits right above the bolts. They are torq its so Ballend allens are not an option. Is there a way I can loosen the fairing to get a torx down in there or am I gonna have to pull the whole bar setup again
Road Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 107
From: Joplin, MO
The plastic flexes quite a bit on mine. I can loosen my front bolts by just removing the switch cover. I hope you tightened the front ones all the way down, or you will have to pull the fairing, etc. again. HD procedure is to tighten front ones completely, and then tighten back ones. Good luck.
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 351
Likes: 2
I am hoping that the case with mine i will try tommorrow and see I have about 16 hours in this thin so far, after first install bike wouldnt start it was the damn tbw, so i tore it back apart fixed it and now this, I just wanna ride
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,916
Likes: 31
From: earth
you can loosen the the two bolts on either side of the upper and lower tree,(SG front bullet blinker mount) these also hold the main suport brackets for the fairing and it will allow the whole fairing to be shifted a good bit. I always tighten the front bolts first and then torque the rear bolts. The top clamp rocks fore and aft so it is not necessary to use a torque wrench on both front and back, if you torque the front the clamp rocks on the bar and the applied force will be the same on the rear and vise versa. Body panels line up a little differently on each individual bike but I am able to do my bars using this method, without removing the inner switch cap and ignition switch. Hope it works for you.
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