The Lady is the service manager. Her lack of concern about the switch being left on is the same lack of concern she showed when one of her Technicians forgot to replace the trans oil after doing the service on a friends bike. Yes it would have been easy to walk over and turn the switch off, but now she can no longer claim the the problem with their service is not her fault.

 

had mine done today and the brake works better now.

 

I do my own work generally but I figured if it is a recall I'd rather have it documented that the dealership performed the repair.

 

And those that are saying that they are putting a plate over the switch, before you put on any plate to keep heat away, ask yourself one question.
"Am I keeping any heat away from the switch, or trapping it?"

Just remember. Any cover you place to "Protect" the switch is blocking air that can cool the same switch.

 

I changed out the converter for a V&H Power Dual set so maybe getting rid of the cat will reduce the heat sufficiently enough to not cook the replacement switch. I thought of putting a piece of aluminium with a few holes in it between the exhaust and the switch. Polishing up one side of the aluminium will help with heat defection too. learned that little gem from cooking with tinfoil.

 

Just had my recalled switch replaced, no issue there. Like others, I do most of my own work; checked bike out before I left - fluids, leaks, pedal, scratch check- all OK. 45 minutes for the switch, hour for the crummy wash. We are a picky lot aren't we? While waiting, a couple hauled their nice red bagger in on a utility trailer for the switch recall. I noticed he had the el cheapo harbor freight wheel chock in the front, the one that looks like two dollars worth of tube bent around somewhat, so I asked "How do you like that wheel chock?" and He bragged on it big time, what a deal, people waste a lot of money, and so on, and as He released the tie down - WHAM goes the bike on it's side, nice shiney bags clawed down the side by the trailer, His wife couldn't cover Her mouth with both hands! I like good quality wheel chocks...

 

Exactly! Lights on. 10 minutes pass. Lights still on. 5 minutes pass. Lights still on. ?????????? You should change your screen name to... ican't

 

I asked myself your question, again, and surprisingly the answer is still, yes I am keeping heat away from the switch, and no I'm not trapping heat in the switch. You posted this exact same thing at least twice, so can you please explain your "air cooled" switch theory and why placing an additional heat barrier between the main source of heat, the exhaust, and the switch is a bad thing? Rhetorical question Farley! This is the same switch used prior to catalyst exhaust headers, it worked fine for many years, the additional heat radiating from the catalyst pipe now exceeds the switche's original thermal insulation spec, so HD had to procure a better suited switch with a higher thermal insulation rating that will protect the electro-mechanical circuit inside from the exhaust heat. It's that simple, nothing more to it. You can continue to Kling-on to your beleif about the switch if you want to, but I still like my theory better.

 

The air passes around the header and over the switch as you ride, and when parked. But by placing a plate over the switch, you are blocking the air flow over the switch, trapping the heated air that is coming off the oil tank. In case you didn't remember, the switch is right next to the oil tank. It uses the air flow to help cool the oil in the tank too. The heat from the exhaust is also radiated and hits the plate. True, by polishing the plate,it will help to reflect the heat. But if you look at most of the photos posted, and the new listing on Fleabay, the plate is painted black. This will attract and trap heat. (Yes, someone has now made the plate and selling them for $19.99)

 

I'd have had a meeting with the general manager, then left, never to return.