When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
What your missing is the rings and cylinger are broken in with in the first 50 miles. Oh there may be a little break in left, but for the most part, they are broken in and that why Motorman's break in proceedure is popular. But the other parts of the engine(valves, lifters, crank and so on) are still braking in and continue to brake in for as long as 5000 miles for motorcycles and 25000 miles for car engines. We know this by riders who sent in oil samples for analysis.
I'm not sure what oil you are looking for, but its pretty much agreed that synthetic oil doesn't create as much friction for break in as non synthetic oil. Now I know some motorcycle and cars are sold new with a synthetic oil, but I also know that many owners those bikes and cars have oil burning problems later down the road. That's not to say syn oil can't be used for proper break in, but I think it does require a more agressive break in like the Motorman method.
I always wonder though, if non synthetic oil is fine for an engine, why risk it. Just hold off on synthetic until 3000 miles. Or 1000 if you can't wait. But whats the harm?
One other thing, letting off the throttle in gear creates enoguh back pressure on the rings to break them in properly. So I think riding your first 10 miles riding from stop light to stop light will break in an engine almost as well as doing the Motorman method.
Follow the book. The people who designed the bikes know what's best. And besides, if something happens due to improper during break-in, the guy on the forum who says ride it hard sure ain't gonna honor your warranty.
The break-in procedures I've seen over the past 50 years specified by manufacturers for any car or MC, even exoticars like Ferrari and Porsche, is for a progressive process. The specific wording varies but the general idea is always the same. I've never seen even one that recommends to "ride it like you would later-on" or "ride it like you stole it."
The important thing is to avoid sustained speeds, and don't use the cruise control (except to test it briefly, if you must). I mostly follow the book and use a progressive procedure all the way up to about 2k miles when I do my first synthetic oil change. That includes some mild acceleration followed by deceleration, which helps seat the rings, and that should be accomplished in the first 50 miles.
I used the moto-man way as well or 10 times @running the bike from 30-60 mph in
3rd gear and letting the motor brake on it's own and this was when the motor had maybe 2 miles on it if that.
I dropped the oil 3 times before 1 K too @100, 500, and 1 K and then 2 K and then switched to synthetic Amsoil 20/50 and now have switched again for good this time to Mobil 1 V Twin 20/50 Synthetic.
When I got my '03 RK, the only new H-D I've ever had, I rode it up the foothills west of Boulder to an elevation of 9000 ft. without exceeding 3500 RPM which put about 50 miles on it and after that just rode like I normally would. Got home with 125 miles on it & changed the oil & filter. It never used a measureable amount of oil between 3000 mile changes after that.
If ride liking you stole is mechanically good enough at 5000 miles, whats wrong with it a 5 miles. I read a conversation on this and the basic reason came down to is if there is a manufacturing defect, the rider or driver could get hurt while being agressive. I understand that because that is why Harley suggest not riding over 50 mph the first 50 miles.
Most race cars and motorcycles with new engines don't usually break in their engines for a race. So I'm not sure there is any mechanical reason for not riding it normally, even if riding it normal is riding it like you stole it.
Most race cars and motorcycles with new engines don't usually break in their engines for a race. So I'm not sure there is any mechanical reason for not riding it normally, even if riding it normal is riding it like you stole it.
Beary
I'm pretty sure I've never seen a race driver check their headlights, tail lights, and turn signals either. Apples do not equal oranges, but do it however you like.
A lot of guys break it in like the book says. That's ok. It will last. Some, like me break it in the motoman way.
I really think the later will give you more power throughout the life of the engine.
As for the comment "The manufacture knows best" That is false. The manufacture doesn't want the guy that cannot control himself breaking it in hard.
Last edited by Indianspringsaz; Dec 1, 2011 at 06:29 PM.
If you buy a new Harley then it's already gonna have enough time on it to seat the rings properly. No, you don't want to drag race your new bike for the first few hundred miles but other than that just ride it like you would normally. For a new build, now days your builder will usually put on a dyno and do the initial breakin. When you get it...it's ready to ride.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.