break in
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 892
Likes: 10
From: in the wind
LOL.thats because they don't have any.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 20,616
Likes: 4,440
From: anacoco, la
from the 2012 owner's manual (which correlates with my 07 manual as well):
1. during the first 50 miles of riding, keep the engine speed below 300 rpm in any gear. do not lug the engine by running or accelerating at very low rpm, or by running at high rpm longer than needed for shifting or passing.
2. up to 500 miles, vary the engine speed and avoid operating at any steady engine speed for long periods. engine speed up to 3500 rpm in any gear is permissable.
3. drive slowly and avoid fast starts at wide open throttle until the engine has warmed up.
4. avoid lugging the engine by not running the engine at ver low speeds in higher gears.
5. avoid hard braking. break in new brakes with moderate use for the first 200 miles.
1. during the first 50 miles of riding, keep the engine speed below 300 rpm in any gear. do not lug the engine by running or accelerating at very low rpm, or by running at high rpm longer than needed for shifting or passing.
2. up to 500 miles, vary the engine speed and avoid operating at any steady engine speed for long periods. engine speed up to 3500 rpm in any gear is permissable.
3. drive slowly and avoid fast starts at wide open throttle until the engine has warmed up.
4. avoid lugging the engine by not running the engine at ver low speeds in higher gears.
5. avoid hard braking. break in new brakes with moderate use for the first 200 miles.
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 91
Likes: 2
From: Indianapolis,Indiana
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 171
From: Simi Valley, CA
If you look at what I wrote earlier (post 10) about the way I did the break-in on my bike, it's similar. Not exactly the same but very similar.
Something else I thought about when reading this article that's a little bit of a tangent as far as this thread is concerned, yet it might be related to proper break-in, is all the complaints of oil dripping from the air cleaner. Maybe an improper break-in is the reason some bikes do it and others don't. If the rings never seated and sealed to there optimum level, could that be the reason for the excessive blow-by that results in excessive oil mist through the breathers and ultimately causing the drips from the air cleaner of some bikes? Interesting to think about, heh?
By the way, my bike has never dripped a drop from the air cleaner and I run the oil level at the full mark religously.
What do you guys think?
Last edited by 2black1s; Dec 1, 2011 at 11:44 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,788
Likes: 5
From: Tennessee
And thats the truth! I'm a believer in breakin it in like your gonna ride it. Next time I was in the dealership they scolded me! LOL!
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Advanced
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 85
Likes: 4
From: Oceanside, Ca
What is break-in oil? I've heard this descriptor throughout my life but have yet to ever see an oil container that says "break-in" oil. I'm gonna call this an urban myth unless an expert can explain otherwise.
Along the same lines, there's the claims that you shouldn't use sythetics right off the bat. If those claims were valid why do several high-end high performance cars come with Mobil 1 from the factory?
I don't have the scientific answer for these questions, but I do have my opinion. And that opinion is these claims are simply heresay.
What do you guys think?
Along the same lines, there's the claims that you shouldn't use sythetics right off the bat. If those claims were valid why do several high-end high performance cars come with Mobil 1 from the factory?
I don't have the scientific answer for these questions, but I do have my opinion. And that opinion is these claims are simply heresay.
What do you guys think?
Put a set of CNC heads and a cam on my last Vette at 30K and it looked new inside.
I change the oil every 4K since new. I really trust Mobil 1 infact I was thinking about using it in my SG.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 658
Likes: 23
From: South Florida
The break-in procedures I've seen over the past 50 years specified by manufacturers for any car or MC, even exoticars like Ferrari and Porsche, is for a progressive process. The specific wording varies but the general idea is always the same. I've never seen even one that recommends to "ride it like you would later-on" or "ride it like you stole it."
The important thing is to avoid sustained speeds, and don't use the cruise control (except to test it briefly, if you must). I mostly follow the book and use a progressive procedure all the way up to about 2k miles when I do my first synthetic oil change. That includes some mild acceleration followed by deceleration, which helps seat the rings, and that should be accomplished in the first 50 miles.
The important thing is to avoid sustained speeds, and don't use the cruise control (except to test it briefly, if you must). I mostly follow the book and use a progressive procedure all the way up to about 2k miles when I do my first synthetic oil change. That includes some mild acceleration followed by deceleration, which helps seat the rings, and that should be accomplished in the first 50 miles.