Cam install links?

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Dec 6, 2011 | 06:41 PM

#11

atrain68

Road Warrior

Joined: Mar 2007

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From: Atlanta, GA

I did not go through the top on the cam project, but I did when I did the big bore. Going through the top is very easy. Save time and get the upper and lower rocker box wrenches from the stealer. Using a hex wrench and dog bone wrench works but it takes more time.

Just remove the gas tank, you won't believe how easy it is. I followed the service manual and it took fifteen minutes to remove. The quick disconnect fuel line does not lose a significant amount of fuel, even under pressure. Use a shop rag when you disconnect the quick release. The only advice is remove the gas tank when you have a half a tank of fuel or less, otherwise you are going to have to lift a lot of weight.

Dec 6, 2011 | 07:30 PM

#12

RoadGlideGary

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Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 372

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From: Denver Colorado

be sure you mark them (front, rear, intake, exhaust) when you take them out and put them back in the same location you removed them from.

Dec 6, 2011 | 08:51 PM

#13

aktid35

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Joined: Feb 2011

Posts: 257

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From: Saginaw, MI

Quote:

Originally Posted by meachamgw

be sure you mark them (front, rear, intake, exhaust) when you take them out and put them back in the same location you removed them from.

No need to mark them Intake is silver and exhaust is black, they are color coded from the factory. It lists the exact specs in the manual as I'm not sure which is which at least enough to bet my bike on it check that first.

Dec 6, 2011 | 09:14 PM

#14

MichiganRider

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Thanks everyone, exactly the info I was looking for. One last thing (I hope). I have amsoil in the motor right now. Is it ok to run the bike with new cams and synthetic oil? Should I change it before/after the cam swap. Or just at my next scheduled time? Its 30 with snow on the ground, so I wont be riding for a while!

Dec 6, 2011 | 10:50 PM

#15

Mike

Ultimate HDF Member

Joined: Jun 2009

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From: Centralia, Wa

Quote:

Originally Posted by skully1200

Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but can you use a regular box end type wrench on those bolts from the outside rather than Allen in the center? I think I remember my indy telling me a 7/16 wrench works just fine.

I will use a 7/16 box end sometimes to break the bolts free initially. The thing you need to be careful of is dinging up the chrome on the rocker box covers. The bolts are semi-recessed, and on the left side, you really can't see what's going on. Of course, the rocker box covers are hidden under the gas tank on the left side anyway, so maybe that's not a concern. On my own bike, I'd use a box end wrench if I didn't have an alternative tool, but I'd wrap the wrench with something to protect the shoulders on the rocker box cover. There's a reason the SE tool is called for in the service manual.

Dec 22, 2011 | 03:09 PM

#16

clarkchriston

Road Master

Joined: Mar 2008

Posts: 855

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From: Puyallup, WA

So other than the time to remove the tank and rocker box covers is there any advantage to using adjustable pushrods. Thinking about doing this myself and saving the $150 and re-using the stock pushrods unless there is some mechanical gain in using adjustable ones.
One last thing, I am assuming that the stock pushrods are not adjustable. If that is correct is it as simple as pulling them, installing the cams and inner beaings then putting the pushrods back in the correct slot. It just sound way easier than the whole adjustment thing.

Dec 22, 2011 | 03:55 PM

#17

atrain68

Road Warrior

Joined: Mar 2007

Posts: 1,377

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From: Atlanta, GA

Quote:

Originally Posted by clarkchriston

The only mechanical gain that I can think of is you can fine tune your pushrod length to help minimize valve train noise. If you are only changing cams and not lifters or other parts, then many keep their stock pushrods with no issues.

If you go through the top then consider this quick mod. On the bottom of the rocker assembly there are two oil drain holes. Use a #43 drill bit and make the existing drain holes slightly larger. Do not substitute with other bits or you will make the drain holes larger than they should be.

This will reduce oil blow by into your air filter. It helped a great deal on my bike. I have far less oil in my air filter. If you can operate a drill, this will take you just a few minutes to do.

Hat tip to Dawg, who originally posted this idea.

Dec 23, 2011 | 08:59 AM

#18

MichiganRider

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If you go through the top then consider this quick mod. On the bottom of the rocker assembly there are two oil drain holes. Use a #43 drill bit and make the existing drain holes slightly larger. Do not substitute with other bits or you will make the drain holes larger than they should be.

This will reduce oil blow by into your air filter. It helped a great deal on my bike. I have far less oil in my air filter. If you can operate a drill, this will take you just a few minutes to do.

Hat tip to Dawg, who originally posted this idea.

[/quote]

Thanks, I might give this a shot!