check engine light sometimes comes on, sometimes no throttle
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2011
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check engine light sometimes comes on, sometimes no throttle
I have a 09 road king police. I changed the pipes and added a stage 1 air cleaner.
I added a terrry components TV-3 and it worked fine for 2 weeks then I started having problems with the throttle not working when I started the bike. I unplugged the tv-3 from the throttle position sensor, to bypass the tv-3, and the bike ran fine for a few weeks.
I noticed over the last 2 weeks that I get the check engine light coming on after stating the bike. It shuts off and everything is fine. Yesterday the check engine light came on and stayed, then I had no throttle at all.
I checked the diagnostic codes several times over the last few days clearing then each time and for P I see either "show no rSP" or "P0120."
I was looking to replace the throttle position sensor but I can't seem to find it online.
I added a terrry components TV-3 and it worked fine for 2 weeks then I started having problems with the throttle not working when I started the bike. I unplugged the tv-3 from the throttle position sensor, to bypass the tv-3, and the bike ran fine for a few weeks.
I noticed over the last 2 weeks that I get the check engine light coming on after stating the bike. It shuts off and everything is fine. Yesterday the check engine light came on and stayed, then I had no throttle at all.
I checked the diagnostic codes several times over the last few days clearing then each time and for P I see either "show no rSP" or "P0120."
I was looking to replace the throttle position sensor but I can't seem to find it online.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
p0120 is TPS
link to codes, reset
http://www.fuelmotousa.com/harleycodes.htm
looks like you have a problem- try reverting to stock then testing the TPS
you could likely do this if you have a meter and know how electronics work ad what reading you should be seeing open/closed and the sweep
( some riders have reported the inside of kuryakin grips coming apart and failure to engage the throttle.)
mike
link to codes, reset
http://www.fuelmotousa.com/harleycodes.htm
looks like you have a problem- try reverting to stock then testing the TPS
you could likely do this if you have a meter and know how electronics work ad what reading you should be seeing open/closed and the sweep
( some riders have reported the inside of kuryakin grips coming apart and failure to engage the throttle.)
mike
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2011
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I didn't have time to pull out the tv-3 completely yet. It's in bypass mode now.
I checked the codes today
P1511 Throttle actuator control power management failure of throttle control actuator
P2101 throttle actuator control motor circuit range/performace error
What does that mean?
I checked the codes today
P1511 Throttle actuator control power management failure of throttle control actuator
P2101 throttle actuator control motor circuit range/performace error
What does that mean?
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
pull the tv3 completely and try again.
it may be causing a problem or it may be disrupting sensor/actuator feedback with the ECM- either through function or by causing poor electrical connections
if that doesn't change after a reset:
as you look at the intake of the throttle body, there is a plug on the left side.
pull that plug off, look for crud on the contacts or even loose wires/ terminals not securely held in the plastic block.
if there is crud on the contacts, clean them carefully- a great tool for this is a "nick-sander" sold in the auto body supplies section--- it is a "pen" with retractable fiberglass strands.
the fiberglass will get in there and clean it out.
( some formulations of spray contact cleaner eat plastic- so not good for the connector blocks)
apply dielectric grease
if all this solves it, try going back to the tv3
in many cases electronic faults are caused by poor connections, sometimes just unplugging something, then plugging back in will solve it.
mike
it may be causing a problem or it may be disrupting sensor/actuator feedback with the ECM- either through function or by causing poor electrical connections
if that doesn't change after a reset:
as you look at the intake of the throttle body, there is a plug on the left side.
pull that plug off, look for crud on the contacts or even loose wires/ terminals not securely held in the plastic block.
if there is crud on the contacts, clean them carefully- a great tool for this is a "nick-sander" sold in the auto body supplies section--- it is a "pen" with retractable fiberglass strands.
the fiberglass will get in there and clean it out.
( some formulations of spray contact cleaner eat plastic- so not good for the connector blocks)
apply dielectric grease
if all this solves it, try going back to the tv3
in many cases electronic faults are caused by poor connections, sometimes just unplugging something, then plugging back in will solve it.
mike
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,600
Likes: 7
From: Minnesota
I think no rSP just means that you don’t have a tach or the ECM doesn’t see it. - Road King, right.
P0120 indicates TPS1 or 2 (throttle position sensor) range error.
Like others have said you could reset the codes but it sounds like you have symptoms of no throttle response that seems to confirm the code P0120.
P0120 indicates TPS1 or 2 (throttle position sensor) range error.
Like others have said you could reset the codes but it sounds like you have symptoms of no throttle response that seems to confirm the code P0120.
TBW issues had me singing the blues! 2009 RKC
I have been dealing with the same issues and found not only was there a dirty/ loose connector issue at the actuator there was also a broken wire at the top of the connector. It was an intermittent problem until the wire finally broke all the way and was hanging loose. The harness being to short/and or zip tied from the factory does not allow enough slack for the harness to lay correctly thereby causing strain on the connectors. I pulled the connector apart, moved slack towards the actuator and repaired the pin connection. Don't forget the dielectric grease! 
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