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Anyone know of a video link showing the Sta Bo install? Searched You Tube and didn't see one. Would like to see exactly how they go in, do you remove the OEM bushings, grease them, etc.?
Don't think so as the Sta Bos fit inside the existing "donuts" and the Glide Pro replaces the donuts, swingarm shaft, inner bushings, etc. Am very familiar with Glide Pro as I have them and the Sta Bo bushings are very different animals if I'm not mistaken. That's why I'd like to see the Sta Bos installed to see if I could do it easliy myself. Saw one thread where a guy tried it and had to machine down the swingarm shaft to get them to fit.
Glide Pro would be simiar install.
Their install is on Youtube.
No, not even close.
It doesn't really require a video. Pull the pivot blocks, insert bushings, re-install pivot blocks. OEM Isolators are retained, the Sta-bo's provide suplimental support to the OEM isolators. This usually requires full or partial exhaust removal, depending on the system you have.
It doesn't really require a video. Pull the pivot blocks, insert bushings, re-install pivot blocks. OEM Isolators are retained, the Sta-bo's provide suplimental support to the OEM isolators. This usually requires full or partial exhaust removal, depending on the system you have.
Thanks, that's what I was looking for. I guess greasing them helps them slide in. With true dual exhaust I shouldn't even have to move the exhaust pipes right?
Thanks, that's what I was looking for. I guess greasing them helps them slide in. With true dual exhaust I shouldn't even have to move the exhaust pipes right?
If you got a clear shot at the pivot blocks, you won't need to remove the exhaust. A little silicone grease makes them go in pretty easy, the Sta-Bo's are urethane but the OEM isolators are rubber so no petroleum grease.
Not sure you'd need both but that would be one tight azze end, Mstng5. The Sta-bo isolator "helpers" would prevent damage to the OEM isolators caused by the torque of the Progressive Link I'm betting and be a good thing. You would most definitely notice a vibration change as everything is now tied together tighter but not a bad trade off for a bike on a rail.
I have the Glide Pro set up on my '91 and it is heavenly compared to that swishing azze end it used to have and it is noticeable at all speeds.
+1 on the Glide Pro, have the set up on my '07, completely changed the ride for the better.
Reading this made me think of a couple of friends.. One dumped his 2000 UC while riding 30 mph because of this problem... I worked on another friends 07 RK and in going over the bike, I retorqued the swing arm and got about 1/4 turn til it was properly torqued. This is one of those things I think where lack of checking makes the bushing wear out. After I torqued his swing arm, he commented on how much tighter it was. He had 18000 miles on the bike, this was like 3 years ago. So, if you don't have the money to fork out for new bushings right now, just double check the torque value on the swing arm. it should be checked every 5000 miles per 99 UC manual. Torque for 99 Ultra is 40 to 45 ft-lbs. Torque the lock nut side not the bolt head side. Regular maintanance of checking torque values all over the bike should be routinely done. Reason being, bolts like to walk out due to the vibration. hope this helps.
If you got a clear shot at the pivot blocks, you won't need to remove the exhaust. A little silicone grease makes them go in pretty easy, the Sta-Bo's are urethane but the OEM isolators are rubber so no petroleum grease.
TKS for that tip as that's important. I'm thinking just a spray silicon would work too.
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