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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 09:44 PM
  #11  
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Well, the fun continues.

Wheel is on and right caliper is happy, the left caliper drags the rotor a bit too much for my taste. By that, I mean, if I back off the bolts on the left caliper, the wheel spins very easily. When I clamp them down, I might get 1 full spin if I give it a hard spin.
All this is going to do is heat the rotor and cause a squeak. Cause that is what it did today.

I need a couple very thin washers to put between the caliper and fork.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by shore
Well, the fun continues.

Wheel is on and right caliper is happy, the left caliper drags the rotor a bit too much for my taste. By that, I mean, if I back off the bolts on the left caliper, the wheel spins very easily. When I clamp them down, I might get 1 full spin if I give it a hard spin.
All this is going to do is heat the rotor and cause a squeak. Cause that is what it did today.

I need a couple very thin washers to put between the caliper and fork.
Are you sure? Are the pistons on either side of the caliper bottomed out? Are they dirty and sticking? There is no way you should need to shim the caliper. The pads should retract unless you have one of the two conditions questioned.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 2black1s
Are you sure? Are the pistons on either side of the caliper bottomed out? Are they dirty and sticking? There is no way you should need to shim the caliper. The pads should retract unless you have one of the two conditions questioned.

Well, that's a good question. The brakes worked fine with the stock wheel just a few days ago. When I put this wheel on they dragged the rotor a bit more than I like. I had to put a new fender on today and decided I would fiddle with it. Left caliper is the one dragging a bit. With it loose, the wheel pretty much spins freely.

Don't get me wrong, the pads are retracting, it's not hanging up. I just have to really spin it to get a full revolution of the tire. With that caliper not torqued, I can get 3 spins fairly easily.

Maye, I should pull the pins out and grease them?

Pads look good and I've compressed the pistons back and reinstalled it that way, clamp the lever and it's that same amount of drag that I don't feel is good enough.

What got me going today is this, I put a heavy breather on and took it for a little spin around the neighborhood, the front brakes squealed a little at slow speed without braking. That tells me it's dragging.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 10:28 AM
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I pulled the pin, cleaned it, greased it. It was black but not built up. Slid it back in and no real change. Still has too much drag for my liking.

I'm going to try the thinnest shims I can find and see if that does it.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 10:36 AM
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When you pushed the pistons back in, did you remove the master cylinder cap? Install AFTER the pistons are pushed back in. This helps in getting the pad/ rotor self adjusting clearance the first time the brakes are applied.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 12:21 PM
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there will be some drag at all times with disc brakes
 
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by SIDECAR BOB
there will be some drag at all times with disc brakes

I know, it's the amount I do not feel comfy with. Right caliper lets the pad drag along but the left caliper stops the wheel. That tells me it's not correct, yet.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 01:16 PM
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On your idea of shimming the caliper here's my thoughts... Assuming there is no gross misalignment with the caliper, none of the pistons are bottomed out, and the pistons are not sticking - shimming the caliper to eliminate the drag will only work until the first time you use the brakes. Once you use the brake and the pad finds its "home" the drag you're experiencing will more than likely be the same as what you have right now.

Look at the design of the brakes. The only mechanism for allowing pad to rotor alignment is movement of the pistons in the caliper. The caliper itself along with the rotor are fixed. So to compensate for any manufacturing variation in the rotor/caliper alignment, and/or pad wear, the pistons have to float from side-to-side. If the pistons are within their "range of float" and you have excessive drag, it has to be caused by excessive friction of the piston in its respective bore, i.e., sticking, thereby not allowing the piston to fully release.

Hope this helps and good luck isolating your problem.
 

Last edited by 2black1s; Dec 29, 2011 at 01:19 PM.
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 01:48 PM
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Well, I took the caliper back out and pulled the pads and sprayed them down with cleaner. Took the master cyl cover off off and pushed the pistons back in. Mounted the caliper(with NO shims) and clamped it down.

Spins good now. Not sure if there was some build-up in the top clip or if pushing the pads back in while the master cylinder was off did it. The dragging is gone now.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 03:51 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by shore
Well, I took the caliper back out and pulled the pads and sprayed them down with cleaner. Took the master cyl cover off off and pushed the pistons back in. Mounted the caliper(with NO shims) and clamped it down.

Spins good now. Not sure if there was some build-up in the top clip or if pushing the pads back in while the master cylinder was off did it. The dragging is gone now.
There you go. I knew shimming wasn't the answer unless you had such a gross misalignment that the pistons couldn't bottom.
 
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