I'm curious about that top chart stock A/F trace, it is way north of stoich. Stock tune is cruise stoich, it is not legitimately lean as many tend to believe. Even a bone stock bike should not have a 17:1+ average AFR line from idle to redline, especially in an open loop WOT run. Maybe some of the dyno tuners can chime in here, is this a typical dyno result from a stock bike WOT run. I also don’t understand why the stock baseline is a 4th gear run, but the after mods and tune runs are in 5th gear, seem an inequitable comparison to me. I know my Twin Scan WEGO will capture some transient spikes in a few cells, but I just can't help but be suspicious of the calibration of the O2 sensors, or maybe the way the Dyno A/F line reads is just deceptive, to someone like myself that is mostly inexperienced at reading dyno sheets. I guess I just find it difficult to accept the accuracy of the O2 feedback of a relatively short WOT run, knowing how misleading transients can be in the system I use, which captures data and averages it over a much longer time frame. Not claiming anything in your dyno sheet is false or intentionally deceptive, it just doesn’t make sense to me. While monitoring real-time feedback under actual operating conditions with the onboard O2 data logging system, I have consistently observed that any change in the intake or exhaust will absolutely effect A/F across the entire map, and anything that promotes more free flowing intake or exhaust always results in a leaner condition. Even simply cleaning the air filter will be evident in the A/F values in the tables. I think this tuning issue is more of a matter of what is an individual willing to accept as “good enough” for a tune. Obviously I’m going for optimized, but that’s my choice, not everybody’s choice, it don’t make me right or them wrong. On its worst day EFI is far more precise fuel metering than a carb, a carb just will not accommodate perfect fuel metering across the entire operating spectrum, but there are plenty of carbed bikes that have racked up many miles over many years, on their marginal at best tune condition. So if a marginal tune doesn’t kill a carbed bike, will a less marginal tune kill an EFI bike? I don’t think so, but I want to know that my bike’s tune condition is optimized. Will a “properly” tuned bike make more power, run stonger with better drivability characteristics? I’m pretty well convinced it will. If somebody want to run voltage splitters, relocate their ACT, or put a shim under the ET sensor, that cool, just don’t try to tell me it is equally effective a real tune, and don’t’ try to tell me a proper tune isn’t necessary because that’s my decision to make based on what I think is important.