Buzz through speakers
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Road Captain
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Buzz through speakers
I have an 08 SG with a RF amp and Hertz speakers installed. Amp is wired directly to the battery both power and ground. Sony head unit installed with the BT install kit.
I recently installed a BAL-3S tail light and I now have a very minor buzz through the speakers when the tail light is going through it's flashing sequence. Seems to stop when the tail light goes to solid. This is, of course, with the radio on.
Didn't notice this buzz prior to installing the BAL-3S.
I did, however, notice a very quiet pop through the speakers when the turn signals were flashing in alarm mode prior to the installation of the BAL-3S.
What do you think? Shorten the ground? I am sure the amp is grounded well to the battery with no loose connections,
Would a load equalizer help?
Thanks in advance.
I recently installed a BAL-3S tail light and I now have a very minor buzz through the speakers when the tail light is going through it's flashing sequence. Seems to stop when the tail light goes to solid. This is, of course, with the radio on.
Didn't notice this buzz prior to installing the BAL-3S.
I did, however, notice a very quiet pop through the speakers when the turn signals were flashing in alarm mode prior to the installation of the BAL-3S.
What do you think? Shorten the ground? I am sure the amp is grounded well to the battery with no loose connections,
Would a load equalizer help?
Thanks in advance.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
the metal case on the radio acts as a shield when grounded, check the ground or better yet add another ground wire- it can't hurt.
the wiring through out the bike can also pick up electrical interference and fields and conduct the noise where it can be amplified and heard.
You may find that a car audio store can suggest a capacitor which will help to filter out the interference.
When I put an MSD ignition on the '66 Cadillac I had to go that route.
Mike
the wiring through out the bike can also pick up electrical interference and fields and conduct the noise where it can be amplified and heard.
You may find that a car audio store can suggest a capacitor which will help to filter out the interference.
When I put an MSD ignition on the '66 Cadillac I had to go that route.
Mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Jan 31, 2012 at 12:44 PM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
You have a couple of suggestions above beyond "checking the ground".
It may also be a problem with the taillight you added.
You could check with the manufacturer, they may have run into this before and be able to offer a solution
Mike
It may also be a problem with the taillight you added.
You could check with the manufacturer, they may have run into this before and be able to offer a solution
Mike
Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 959
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From: Westerville, OH
More then likely your issue is the grounding of the Amp. What is probably happening is you are getting feedback from the stator as the tail light is being activated. In any case you should NOT wire your Amp to the battery directly as your Ground also protects your Amp if something goes wrong with your power source,
Move your ground to a suitable place on the frame (Look on the side of the triple tree below the fairing) and you should be good.
Mike
Move your ground to a suitable place on the frame (Look on the side of the triple tree below the fairing) and you should be good.
Mike
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Add a ground wire. My truck + mustang have pretty rockin systems and after the 3rd amp went in I too had a buzz. But then I sobered up,and cleaned up the amps grounding wire. Sanded down to bare metal,shortened the wire. Try that
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Roswell, GA
First, the RF amp installation instructions say to ground the amp to the frame; not the battery. They also say the ground wire shouldn't be longer than 30", so going to the battery exceeds that recommended length.
As previously mentioned, there is a grounding screw on the upper triple tree. It's relatively easy to access with the fairing cap removed.
Alternatively, and although it's slightly longer than 30", there are two grounding studs in front of the battery, just to the rear of the gas tank. One will have the cable from the battery negative terminal. Use the other one located nearby.
To exclude the BAL tail light as the culprit, disconnect the BAL tail light and see if you still get any "noise." Also try it with the OEM tail light installed.
Good luck with finding a solution.
Carl
As previously mentioned, there is a grounding screw on the upper triple tree. It's relatively easy to access with the fairing cap removed.
Alternatively, and although it's slightly longer than 30", there are two grounding studs in front of the battery, just to the rear of the gas tank. One will have the cable from the battery negative terminal. Use the other one located nearby.
To exclude the BAL tail light as the culprit, disconnect the BAL tail light and see if you still get any "noise." Also try it with the OEM tail light installed.
Good luck with finding a solution.
Carl