Exhaust Flange Nuts
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,949
Likes: 288
Exhaust Flange Nuts
Gearing up to do my cam change. I have read a number of posts on torqing exhaust flange nuts, and would like opinions as to the best tool. Some say a crows foot, but it's hard enough getting a socket w/ extension in there, so this would seem more difficult. Input appreciated.
Also, when removing the exhaust, do you disconnect the O2 sensors under the right side cover, or loosen up the exhaust enough to disconnect them from the pipe and leave them plugged into the harness? Thanks ahead of time for suggestions.
TedMan
Also, when removing the exhaust, do you disconnect the O2 sensors under the right side cover, or loosen up the exhaust enough to disconnect them from the pipe and leave them plugged into the harness? Thanks ahead of time for suggestions.
TedMan
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 697
Likes: 42
From: Magnolia, DE
I just used a swivel socket and extension myself. No problems. As far as the 02 sensors go, I took them off prior to removing the exhaust as they can be a bear to break loose. Make sure you careful put a little anti seize on the threads before re-installation making sure to not get any on the sensor (you will ruin it that way)
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 102
From: Central Illinois
I use a 1/4" drive socket, long extension and 1/4" drive long handled ratchet. That way its real hard to over torque the nuts on reassembly and the 1/4" drive extension is very thin to make it easier to gain access for removal and re-assembly.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,529
Likes: 8
From: Central Fl.
I use a 1/4" drive socket, long extension and 1/4" drive long handled ratchet. That way its real hard to over torque the nuts on reassembly and the 1/4" drive extension is very thin to make it easier to gain access for removal and re-assembly.
Supporter
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,419
Likes: 90
From: Vermont
I tried every configuration here and could not for the life of me get to the front bottom exhaust nut with anything capable of properly torquing that nut. I ultimately followed the torquing procedure listed in the book, but when I got to the lower front nut, I had to use an open end wrench. All I did was ensure that the others were torqued correctly and according to the procedure listed and tightened that lower one so that the stud showing was equal top and bottom and the gap between the head and flange ring was equal. They don't take a lot of torque. One final suggestion, when you go to re-torque the nuts after the first good ride....do it when the bike is cool or you may over torque them. I have done this several time with no leaks and no issues.
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Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 135
Likes: 1
From: Ottertail, MN
Previous posts have covered the how but here's some options to keep them from coming loose in the first place. I've had trouble with ex nuts coming loose periodically and wanted to correct the problem and asked this question here last year. There are two options that I liked. ARP #200-8203 is a 12 point self locking nut that takes a smaller socket size because its 12 point. Between $2-5 each to purchase online depending where you look. A little rich for me for a 5/16 nut. So, I did a little more looking and found 6 point distorted thread self-locking nuts from Fastenal for $.26 each, #0166998. I took my exhaust all apart and installed SE ex gaskets this winter. I have a Fastenal store close by so went with those. The distorted thread nuts go on hard so I can't imagine they will work loose. Time will tell.