OK, so I made CLL375's removal tool. On the first attempt I was having some problems and tried the screwdriver method. Managed to get the cams out of alignment. Watched the video about 5 more times and read some more threads on ignition switch installs. Managed to fix my half assed version of CLL's copper tubing to the right dimensions. Much better now. All back together and went to start the bike. I'm getting a loud banging sound and the bike is not turning over. Battery is good. The banging sound similar to the click sound from a weak battery only louder. Also, the right side yellow marker light is not working. Blinker works fine. The bulb is fine and everything else is OK. I thought I might have something out of alignment from not putting the switch back together correctly. Going to check all the fuses right now. Any ideas?

Thanks
King1065

 

I don't think the switch will go back together if it is out of alignment, but I am no expert only had mine apart a couple of times. I would help the diagnosis if we knew what you did to the bike when you had the ignition apart.

 

Doug, I was taking a look at the handlebar clamp due to the bars having a little movement. Tightened down the 2 rear handlebar clamp screws a bit and solved that problem. I took out the radio and planned on taking off the tank to install a new HD premium air horn kit I bought last year. My concern on the ignition switch was this. While I was turning the ignition tool when it was not reaching the bottom cam I went to one or two positions/stops that were between "fork lock" and "access" (with the handle on the tool pointing toward the tank). I guess I was just turning the upper cam(s). Nothing happened and I didn't notice anything break. The switch went back together fine after everything inside appeared lined up. All the positions seam to line up correctly. Oh, and the fuses appear to be OK. When I brought the bike outside to start it up and purge the fuel system I found the banging sound when pressing the start button.

 

the switch will go back together out of alignment- hence 2 or 3 threads a week- usually the ign. works but the fork lock doesn't in those threads

banging sound- but the motor is not turning over---?

the solenoid will chatter if the battery is weak.

is your battery fully charged ( like with a charger, not a battery tender)

marker light, start at the bulb and work back.

mike

 

Thanks Mike,

The forks lock and the switch positions seam to work as planned.

I guess the banging could be described as more of a loud rapid clicking, like the sound of the solenoid with a weak battery.

I'm not sure if the battery is fully charged. It sits on the battery tender while in the garage. That's where it spends most of it's time. I have like 550 miles put on since April of last year when I bought the FLHTK new.

On that marker light, I just thought that may be an easy symptom for something that went wrong. That's the only light affected. I'll give a call to the mechanic that I use to have the pro's take over.

Thanks for the quick replies.

Scott

 

I would suspect a weak or bad battery rather than the switch. Put it on a charger and bring it up to full charge to rule it out. After that is fixed then move to the marker light.

 

Thanks Doug. I'm going to do that right now.

Stay safe brother

 

You guys nailed it! Battery was toast. Dealer replaced it on warranty. Also did the brake light switch recall. Marker light was just burned out. The filaments both looked OK but did not work. Replaced that and was good to go for a hundred miles today through some snow showers on the way back from Cape Cod.

Thanks

 

No need to remove tank.