How Do I Richen It Up?
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,776
Likes: 2,252
From: wet coast BC
Sepst
I have a 2011 RKC with Vance/Hines mufflers and a SE air filter. I purchased a SEPST and reflashed with a standard map. I then did about 8-10 "Smart Tune" runs and reflashed again. I've put about 1000 miles on it since then, and my plugs are still pretty white...assuming I'm still running pretty lean.
Is there an easy way, or can anyone explain to me how I would richen up the mixture using the SEPST? Can I just change the AFR values to a lower number and reflash? I'm far from an expert at using the tuner, hence why I ask if there's an easy way to do it. I hate to spend the money to get it dynoed.
Thanks.
Is there an easy way, or can anyone explain to me how I would richen up the mixture using the SEPST? Can I just change the AFR values to a lower number and reflash? I'm far from an expert at using the tuner, hence why I ask if there's an easy way to do it. I hate to spend the money to get it dynoed.
Thanks.
long read but it will explain a lot. also the instructions that come on the SEPST CD. 8-10 smart tune runs would have set the VE tables. Once you read the above you will get a handle on where to adjust AFR to get what you are after. The street tuner can only flash canned maps with no changes, I do not think it can even do smart tunes.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,195
Likes: 299
From: midwest
Simply put, the O2's reveal the effect of whatever's happening to the AF ratio, thus the reliability of monitoring the results of tweaking various inputs to the ECM electronically (programming).
The only caveats are to ensure that all parameters are consistent so that data feedback is accurate. These involve starting with a clean slate i.e., no exhaust/intake leaks, clean air filter, and atmospheric conditions - temp, humidity, baro pressure. Engine temp and test conditions (route, speed, etc.) are also important for comparison purposes.
There are threads that go into detail on using your tuner - take your time, read up, and only change 1 or 2 items at a time. Make notes on effects and don't sweat plug color - as has been said, it don't mean a lot anymore.
The only caveats are to ensure that all parameters are consistent so that data feedback is accurate. These involve starting with a clean slate i.e., no exhaust/intake leaks, clean air filter, and atmospheric conditions - temp, humidity, baro pressure. Engine temp and test conditions (route, speed, etc.) are also important for comparison purposes.
There are threads that go into detail on using your tuner - take your time, read up, and only change 1 or 2 items at a time. Make notes on effects and don't sweat plug color - as has been said, it don't mean a lot anymore.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 10,216
Likes: 224
From: Glendale AZ
Well, real good explanation and I see where your coming from. Until the expense of dyno tuning is in the reasonable range and my motor doesnt have to get punished to the point of premature aging because of it, Im going to have to stay with the guessing. Good dyno tuners are scarce and the good ones appear too expensive for my budget......
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,916
Likes: 31
From: earth
There is another option, http://www.daytona-twintec.com/Twin_Scan2.html , or similar type system.
A lot of people will scoff at the $600 price tag, then turn around and buy diamond studded platinum muffler tips or silk bag liners. That's a one time charge, instead of paying a tuner every time you want to change something on your set up. And once you can "see" the effect of minor changes, to include simply cleaning your air filter, then you will know the "changing only pipes or only intake doesn't need a tune" or the "ECM adjusts" claims are all crap. Along with real time O2 datalogging to acquire tuning correction values, you also get a diagnostic code reader. The unit does not marry to your ECM so you can use it on multiple bikes. Nobody takes care of your bike like you do, once tuned you will know without a doubt exactly what your total tune condition is, not just a single WOT TQ/HP curve with an AF trace. For those worried about a dyno operator beating up on your bike, you just put this thing on and ride the way you do normally, then download the logs, assess the feedback, make some adjustments and repeat until you reach your target. Your tune will be optimmized for the way you ride under your real conditions, not artificially induced conditions. Works with any tuning device, would even be beneficial to tweak VIEDs; an actual balanced tune condition between the two cylinders will make more power with less vibration than two plugs that look the same, gurantee it. BTW with an O2 verified "balanced" tune, front and rear AF conditions the same, my front and rear plugs never look exactly the same, so trying to make them look the same probably isn't providing any benefit, other than making the plugs look the same. This type of system gives you the ability to tune within a couple% of the best tuner you can find. Since we don't all have access to the best tuner in the country, chance are you will tune it better yourself than if you paid someone. Even dyno tuners tune with O2 feedback, the only difference is TQ/HP feedback that they can tweak by cheating the AF a little.
A lot of people will scoff at the $600 price tag, then turn around and buy diamond studded platinum muffler tips or silk bag liners. That's a one time charge, instead of paying a tuner every time you want to change something on your set up. And once you can "see" the effect of minor changes, to include simply cleaning your air filter, then you will know the "changing only pipes or only intake doesn't need a tune" or the "ECM adjusts" claims are all crap. Along with real time O2 datalogging to acquire tuning correction values, you also get a diagnostic code reader. The unit does not marry to your ECM so you can use it on multiple bikes. Nobody takes care of your bike like you do, once tuned you will know without a doubt exactly what your total tune condition is, not just a single WOT TQ/HP curve with an AF trace. For those worried about a dyno operator beating up on your bike, you just put this thing on and ride the way you do normally, then download the logs, assess the feedback, make some adjustments and repeat until you reach your target. Your tune will be optimmized for the way you ride under your real conditions, not artificially induced conditions. Works with any tuning device, would even be beneficial to tweak VIEDs; an actual balanced tune condition between the two cylinders will make more power with less vibration than two plugs that look the same, gurantee it. BTW with an O2 verified "balanced" tune, front and rear AF conditions the same, my front and rear plugs never look exactly the same, so trying to make them look the same probably isn't providing any benefit, other than making the plugs look the same. This type of system gives you the ability to tune within a couple% of the best tuner you can find. Since we don't all have access to the best tuner in the country, chance are you will tune it better yourself than if you paid someone. Even dyno tuners tune with O2 feedback, the only difference is TQ/HP feedback that they can tweak by cheating the AF a little.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 10,216
Likes: 224
From: Glendale AZ
There is another option, http://www.daytona-twintec.com/Twin_Scan2.html , or similar type system.
A lot of people will scoff at the $600 price tag, then turn around and buy diamond studded platinum muffler tips or silk bag liners. That's a one time charge, instead of paying a tuner every time you want to change something on your set up. And once you can "see" the effect of minor changes, to include simply cleaning your air filter, then you will know the "changing only pipes or only intake doesn't need a tune" or the "ECM adjusts" claims are all crap. Along with real time O2 datalogging to acquire tuning correction values, you also get a diagnostic code reader. The unit does not marry to your ECM so you can use it on multiple bikes. Nobody takes care of your bike like you do, once tuned you will know without a doubt exactly what your total tune condition is, not just a single WOT TQ/HP curve with an AF trace. For those worried about a dyno operator beating up on your bike, you just put this thing on and ride the way you do normally, then download the logs, assess the feedback, make some adjustments and repeat until you reach your target. Your tune will be optimmized for the way you ride under your real conditions, not artificially induced conditions. Works with any tuning device, would even be beneficial to tweak VIEDs; an actual balanced tune condition between the two cylinders will make more power with less vibration than two plugs that look the same, gurantee it. BTW with an O2 verified "balanced" tune, front and rear AF conditions the same, my front and rear plugs never look exactly the same, so trying to make them look the same probably isn't providing any benefit, other than making the plugs look the same. This type of system gives you the ability to tune within a couple% of the best tuner you can find. Since we don't all have access to the best tuner in the country, chance are you will tune it better yourself than if you paid someone. Even dyno tuners tune with O2 feedback, the only difference is TQ/HP feedback that they can tweak by cheating the AF a little.
A lot of people will scoff at the $600 price tag, then turn around and buy diamond studded platinum muffler tips or silk bag liners. That's a one time charge, instead of paying a tuner every time you want to change something on your set up. And once you can "see" the effect of minor changes, to include simply cleaning your air filter, then you will know the "changing only pipes or only intake doesn't need a tune" or the "ECM adjusts" claims are all crap. Along with real time O2 datalogging to acquire tuning correction values, you also get a diagnostic code reader. The unit does not marry to your ECM so you can use it on multiple bikes. Nobody takes care of your bike like you do, once tuned you will know without a doubt exactly what your total tune condition is, not just a single WOT TQ/HP curve with an AF trace. For those worried about a dyno operator beating up on your bike, you just put this thing on and ride the way you do normally, then download the logs, assess the feedback, make some adjustments and repeat until you reach your target. Your tune will be optimmized for the way you ride under your real conditions, not artificially induced conditions. Works with any tuning device, would even be beneficial to tweak VIEDs; an actual balanced tune condition between the two cylinders will make more power with less vibration than two plugs that look the same, gurantee it. BTW with an O2 verified "balanced" tune, front and rear AF conditions the same, my front and rear plugs never look exactly the same, so trying to make them look the same probably isn't providing any benefit, other than making the plugs look the same. This type of system gives you the ability to tune within a couple% of the best tuner you can find. Since we don't all have access to the best tuner in the country, chance are you will tune it better yourself than if you paid someone. Even dyno tuners tune with O2 feedback, the only difference is TQ/HP feedback that they can tweak by cheating the AF a little.
Thread Starter
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Advanced
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Utah
This actually sounds very similar to the "Smart Tune" option available with the SEPST and software. You plug the SEPST in to the ECM, drive around for 30-45 mins. while recording info from the O2 sensors, download the info, and the software makes adjustments to the map based on how you drive your bike. The more recordings you do, the closer it gets your map to how you ride. Like I said in my original post, I've done maybe 8-10 recordings, and it's getting pretty close.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 4
From: South Carolina
This actually sounds very similar to the "Smart Tune" option available with the SEPST and software. You plug the SEPST in to the ECM, drive around for 30-45 mins. while recording info from the O2 sensors, download the info, and the software makes adjustments to the map based on how you drive your bike. The more recordings you do, the closer it gets your map to how you ride. Like I said in my original post, I've done maybe 8-10 recordings, and it's getting pretty close.
