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When Clutches Slip

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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 05:10 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Bleachey
Is this different on the twin-cams or due to an upgrade? I pulled mine without taking the primary cover off.
I think the spring is smaller on your application. I know I could not get the spring in or out unless the whole outer primary is removed. But it's easy to do and if a guy is careful the gasket can be reused. I bought a new gasket and didn't use it. I am keeping it on hand it so the one I reused will never leak
 
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 05:20 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by qtrracer
I think the spring is smaller on your application. I know I could not get the spring in or out unless the whole outer primary is removed. But it's easy to do and if a guy is careful the gasket can be reused. I bought a new gasket and didn't use it. I am keeping it on hand it so the one I reused will never leak
And I just had the cover off a couple weeks ago! Yes, the primary gasket is very expensive so I will reuse the one I have. In any event, removing the cover is easy.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 05:27 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by journeyman
What kind of oil is in your primary?
If synthetic, I'd start with changing that.
Synthetic motorcycle oil that has the JASO stamp is not more slippery than any other JASO stamped oil. Synthetic or not.
Energy conserving or resource concerving do contain molybdenum disulfide which is a friction modifier,which is more slippery than some additives,however they are stamped as such and we all know not to use that stuff.
Don't we?
So to conclude,any JASO stamped oil is wet clutch safe,synthetic or not.
But if the primary needs changed anyway try rotella t 15w-40. It's JASO stamped and cheap.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 05:52 PM
  #14  
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I have a 106 with tw-555 cams and you will need the following:
vpc-92T (must have)
340lb clutch spring (must have)
billet clutch plate (nice to have to find neutral)

You can buy all of these from AIM and possibly negotiate a bundled deal. my clutch is an easy pull with all three combo'd up.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 06:06 PM
  #15  
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Make sure you take a good long look at your clutch pack too.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 06:09 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by qtrracer
Make sure you take a good long look at your clutch pack too.
The bike has 23,000 miles. Should I expect clutch pack issues so soon?
 
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 07:06 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by atrain68
The bike has 23,000 miles. Should I expect clutch pack issues so soon?
Depends on how many times the clutch has been engaged and dis-engaged in those 23,000 miles, and your riding style. I can tell you there is no way my clutch will make it to 20,000 miles. I ride mainly in the canyons and ride fairly spirited. So I shift alot more than most touring bikes/riders do for a given distance. But as long as you are in there looking good doesn't cost more than not looking good at those parts.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 07:22 PM
  #18  
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when the plates slip they burn and glaze ,have a really close look.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 07:26 PM
  #19  
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You could concider the 98A spring. It fits. In somewhere between stock and the SE. I find the SE to be a bit much in lever effort. I don't have the power you have but wheelies and burnouts are part of a regular days riding for me and the 98A has held up no probs.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 07:36 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by davewear
You could concider the 98A spring. It fits. In somewhere between stock and the SE. I find the SE to be a bit much in lever effort. I don't have the power you have but wheelies and burnouts are part of a regular days riding for me and the 98A has held up no probs.
That is right in there rate wise with the AIM 340 spring. If I had to buy just a spring the 98a would be a good choice as it is what, 29 bucks and the 340 is 45 bucks. But I think sometimes AIM will do a bundle(VPC+Pressure Plate) and throw the spring in for free. A good deal if those parts are desired.
 
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