My First Clutch Adjustment
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 129
Likes: 21
From: Music City, USA
My First Clutch Adjustment
well thanks to everyone who has shared some information on the subject, between the info here and my service manual i finally had the confidence to attack it.
anywho.. took me a few times to get it where i wanted it and i may have to do it one more time as the friction zone is almost too close now.
The reason why I'm posting this is my cable never really moved away from the lever itself. I hear a lot of people saying that they would tighten the clutch cable until there was a dime to a nickel's width between the ferrule and the perch. I feel good about my adjustment within the derby cover. But due to my cable never really backing out when slack, i dont know if i have the cable itself at the proper distance.
Any thoughts?
anywho.. took me a few times to get it where i wanted it and i may have to do it one more time as the friction zone is almost too close now.
The reason why I'm posting this is my cable never really moved away from the lever itself. I hear a lot of people saying that they would tighten the clutch cable until there was a dime to a nickel's width between the ferrule and the perch. I feel good about my adjustment within the derby cover. But due to my cable never really backing out when slack, i dont know if i have the cable itself at the proper distance.
Any thoughts?
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 173
From: Simi Valley, CA
If the ferrule is tight and doesn't move from the lever bracket, simply determine the amount of free play in the cable itself. The end result is the same either way. The number one criteria is simply to make sure you have some freeplay - More is better than not enough.
Last edited by 2black1s; Feb 28, 2012 at 09:23 PM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,212
Likes: 212
I always have to pull the clutch a little after loosening the adjuster to get the actual play in the lever. Then you can tighten up the adjuster until you can just tap the lever and have it jiggle. A good trick, like was said, is to stick a nickel in there (dime is a little thin for my taste) and tighten until it just barely stays.
If you don't have enough slack, you'll notice because your bike will creep with the clutch in.
If you don't have enough slack, you'll notice because your bike will creep with the clutch in.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 173
From: Simi Valley, CA
Not enough "slack" (or I call it freeplay) will not cause the bike to creep with the clutch in. Creeping would be caused by the clutch not disengaging completely and that in turn would be caused by too much freeplay.
On the other hand, what could happen if you do not have enough freeplay is the clutch may never fully engage, and then you'll have slippage when placed under load.
This is the reason why I stated in an earlier post that more freeplay is better than not enough freeplay. Not enough freeplay can cause accelerated wear of your clutch, while too much freeplay will not cause any damage, but may cause "creeping" as you say and harder shifting, especially finding nuetral.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,212
Likes: 212
You've got that backwards.
Not enough "slack" (or I call it freeplay) will not cause the bike to creep with the clutch in. Creeping would be caused by the clutch not disengaging completely and that in turn would be caused by too much freeplay.
On the other hand, what could happen if you do not have enough freeplay is the clutch may never fully engage, and then you'll have slippage when placed under load.
This is the reason why I stated in an earlier post that more freeplay is better than not enough freeplay. Not enough freeplay can cause accelerated wear of your clutch, while too much freeplay will not cause any damage, but may cause "creeping" as you say and harder shifting, especially finding nuetral.
Not enough "slack" (or I call it freeplay) will not cause the bike to creep with the clutch in. Creeping would be caused by the clutch not disengaging completely and that in turn would be caused by too much freeplay.
On the other hand, what could happen if you do not have enough freeplay is the clutch may never fully engage, and then you'll have slippage when placed under load.
This is the reason why I stated in an earlier post that more freeplay is better than not enough freeplay. Not enough freeplay can cause accelerated wear of your clutch, while too much freeplay will not cause any damage, but may cause "creeping" as you say and harder shifting, especially finding nuetral.
Not enough freeplay would mean slipping clutch, too much and you'll never disengage, just like you state.
I swear, I actually do know these things...
Trending Topics
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 173
From: Simi Valley, CA
Good move dude! Not many around here actually acknowledge that they might be wrong.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
