Thunder max
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 33
Likes: 1
From: Tyler, Tx
Thunder max
Has anyone had experience with zipper's thunder max tbw? Let me know what kind of results you got. I am running a sert now and not happy after many "dyno tunes".
I am running a 2008 flhtcui converted 96 to 103 with the upgrade kit. 10.5:1 pistons, 259e cams, se heavy breather, true duals with vance & hine pro pipe slip ons. Just can't seem to hit the right tune.
I am running a 2008 flhtcui converted 96 to 103 with the upgrade kit. 10.5:1 pistons, 259e cams, se heavy breather, true duals with vance & hine pro pipe slip ons. Just can't seem to hit the right tune.
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 934
Likes: 54
From: SE Wisconsin
Mine ran good out of the box. After a few riding sessions seemed even better. After 1000 miles I let it re-tweak it's base map based on it's own "learned fuel adjustments".
I'd put my bike up against the same with a power commander anyday, and have. Not disappointed yet!
Dyno tuners need not apply! This set up is easy to do and their customer support is great.
I'd put my bike up against the same with a power commander anyday, and have. Not disappointed yet!
Dyno tuners need not apply! This set up is easy to do and their customer support is great.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 166
Likes: 2
From: Pa
I stopped using Tmax about a year ago with high comp. builds. Tmax is alpha-n system which means you loose the ability for the ecm to reduce timing if it senses detonation, and with 10.5 comp. and in Texas heat you are a perfect candidate for this problem. The timing tables can be adjusted but to stop the ping you end up over compensating the timing, resulting in a over all loss of power. If you were running stock comp. then I would probably have a different opinion. This has been my experience, but is also just an opinion. If you want the bike to run good and don't want to mess with it, there are better choices.
I stopped using Tmax about a year ago with high comp. builds. Tmax is alpha-n system which means you loose the ability for the ecm to reduce timing if it senses detonation, and with 10.5 comp. and in Texas heat you are a perfect candidate for this problem. The timing tables can be adjusted but to stop the ping you end up over compensating the timing, resulting in a over all loss of power. If you were running stock comp. then I would probably have a different opinion. This has been my experience, but is also just an opinion. If you want the bike to run good and don't want to mess with it, there are better choices.
I had no problem reducing the timing to get rid of pinging on an 03 and keep the power. I had one on my 02' Ultra and really liked it.
I have a TM A/t on my 11' Limited and really like it, I changed cams, A/C, and put rinehart s/o on and it woke the motor up.
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 316
Likes: 3
From: Under a bridge
I run a TMax on my 2011 FLHX and I love it. I installed it myself and have gotten fantastic support from Zippers Performance on the few questions I had. I'm running a D&D FatCat 2-1 and a Heavy Breather. Threw in cams (CycleRama 575s) last night and downloaded the recommended base map - smooth and tons of torque!
My indy recommended that I do the automap procedure every couple hundred miles with the new cams until the map is exact. It's a very simple procedure and takes me about 5 minutes. Compare that with hundreds of dollars in dyno tunes every time you change something or feel that something isn't quite perfect with your tune. TMax is absolutely a good investment because it's a one time expense for lifetime tuning.
Can't speak to the high compression/detonation issues that DBAGR had because I'm running stock compression. Even if I have to later change to another tuner for a Stage 3 or better, the TMax has already paid for itself, IMO.
My indy recommended that I do the automap procedure every couple hundred miles with the new cams until the map is exact. It's a very simple procedure and takes me about 5 minutes. Compare that with hundreds of dollars in dyno tunes every time you change something or feel that something isn't quite perfect with your tune. TMax is absolutely a good investment because it's a one time expense for lifetime tuning.
Can't speak to the high compression/detonation issues that DBAGR had because I'm running stock compression. Even if I have to later change to another tuner for a Stage 3 or better, the TMax has already paid for itself, IMO.
Last edited by Sparky73; Mar 4, 2012 at 12:37 PM. Reason: typo
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,710
Likes: 6
From: Spokane, WA.
I had Tmax on my 07 FLSTF, messed around with it for a long time, but it seemed to never dial in and I feel that the SERT I had for it
with a Dyno tune would have been the best way to go. No one on my area can tune a Tmax.
Here is the dyno sheet that I had from the bike.
Last edited by mgmmgm; Mar 4, 2012 at 12:13 PM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,334
Likes: 17
From: Rosamond, Cali
I don't currently have the TMAX. But I had it on an earlier bike. I contemplate installing one on my current bike, but for the time-being, I'm sticking with my SERT. (I have a very mild 'build', cams only and Stage 1).
I've read everything I can about the TMax over the years. I'm not a mechanic, or an expert in building these engines. But from my reading, my sense is for a stock to lightly modified engine, the TMax is great. It's more questionable that it will be optimal when the build gets more exotic. I would think it would still be very good with these, and not cause a 'lean' or 'rich' condition, but as for getting the last few horsepower out, there are probably better (TTS/Dyno) methods.
As DBAGR points out, there is no knock-reduction function in the TMax. If your engine is prone to knock (high compression), then the TMax could be problematic.
Since you've already got a SERT, and done dyno tuning, and you aren't satisfied...it would seem time to try something else. Either a different tuner and method (TTS, if you're not using it), or maybe switching to a TMax.
Speaking of TTS, I have the old style SERT (forerunner to the current TTS). I didn't opt to upgrade to the TTS, so I'm not certain of all its features. But I BELIEVE, at least for 06 and later TC's, there's a function to auto-tune. I don't know that it's as automated as the TMax in this regard, but it could be it will provide you a little more flexibility with your tuning parameters. Certainly, the TTS system uses the stock ECM, so unless it disables knock-sensing/reduction, you'll retain that...
Alan
I've read everything I can about the TMax over the years. I'm not a mechanic, or an expert in building these engines. But from my reading, my sense is for a stock to lightly modified engine, the TMax is great. It's more questionable that it will be optimal when the build gets more exotic. I would think it would still be very good with these, and not cause a 'lean' or 'rich' condition, but as for getting the last few horsepower out, there are probably better (TTS/Dyno) methods.
As DBAGR points out, there is no knock-reduction function in the TMax. If your engine is prone to knock (high compression), then the TMax could be problematic.
Since you've already got a SERT, and done dyno tuning, and you aren't satisfied...it would seem time to try something else. Either a different tuner and method (TTS, if you're not using it), or maybe switching to a TMax.
Speaking of TTS, I have the old style SERT (forerunner to the current TTS). I didn't opt to upgrade to the TTS, so I'm not certain of all its features. But I BELIEVE, at least for 06 and later TC's, there's a function to auto-tune. I don't know that it's as automated as the TMax in this regard, but it could be it will provide you a little more flexibility with your tuning parameters. Certainly, the TTS system uses the stock ECM, so unless it disables knock-sensing/reduction, you'll retain that...
Alan
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Tourer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 397
Likes: 1
Most the problems with the TM is bad connections you have to make sure your grounds are good plus use dilelaxe grease on the 16 pin plug that plugs into your main wiring harness literly cover the thing pluss put some on inside of the female plug to in sure a moisture free fit
