Stock carb cough?
#1
Stock carb cough?
I have an 10 electra glide with the stock carb. four or five time in during the course of a couple hour ride I'm getting a carb "cough". It's usually when I'm going through the gears lower speeds usually happens around 3k rpm's. does not do it in 5th gear at 3k rpm which is 70mph. Is it a matter of rejetting? which jet? plugs look like it's just a a bit lean.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
#3
#4
The cv carb in stock condition will often sneeze just as you leave a light-
the millions of us who had evos know this well.
the idle mixture adjust is under a metal plug, to remove the carb has to be pulled. a 1/8" holt drilled into the plug, then the plug levered off.
lots of good Cv carb info at nightrider.com in the bike tech section cv carb tuning and modding chapters.
( DO NOT bother with the carb kits from dynojet, yost or anyone else- perfect tuning can be achieved following the instructions and $20 worth of jets and the sportster needle)
this sneeze can also be a result of improper valve operation, but that is unlikely unless you have recently done work on cam/lifter/pushrods
same with ignition timing problem, could be, but unlikely
If you can't find tuning info, pm me and I'll send you a link
Mike
the millions of us who had evos know this well.
the idle mixture adjust is under a metal plug, to remove the carb has to be pulled. a 1/8" holt drilled into the plug, then the plug levered off.
lots of good Cv carb info at nightrider.com in the bike tech section cv carb tuning and modding chapters.
( DO NOT bother with the carb kits from dynojet, yost or anyone else- perfect tuning can be achieved following the instructions and $20 worth of jets and the sportster needle)
this sneeze can also be a result of improper valve operation, but that is unlikely unless you have recently done work on cam/lifter/pushrods
same with ignition timing problem, could be, but unlikely
If you can't find tuning info, pm me and I'll send you a link
Mike
Last edited by mkguitar; 03-18-2012 at 07:45 PM.
#5
I was told that if it is not a california bike there is no plug? do you know about that? if there is no plug can the "idle mixture" be adjusted? again, it happpens at approx. 3k rpm would that still be the "idl emixture" adjustment? where is it located? can it be done while on the bike? If so which way do you turn it to richen?
thanks
thanks
#6
what you were told is what you were told.
My experience is different, I've had many of these carbs in my hands, modded and tuned them.
I do know that the idle adjust is under a plug on all cv carbs installed on Harleys from the factory ( '88 sportys, '90 Big Twins up to 2006).
IF the plug is removed, then it is possible that the carb has been monkeyed with.
If it is in place then the carb is likely bone stock- which is good as it is a known quantity ( there is nothing worse than a card damaged by ham-handed attempts.)
the carb does need to come off to have the plug removed. the idle adjust is made richer by backing out the screw under the plug--- turn too far out and the screw falls out and the bike won't idle, turn in too far/too hard and the needle seat can be damaged forever.
other adjustments are low speed jet, needle, checking the accel pump and the diaphragm on the slide
have you been to nightrider.com yet ?
I think it's all there.
This is all assuming that your "10 electra glide" was a typo- if it's a 2010 you have EFI
Mike
My experience is different, I've had many of these carbs in my hands, modded and tuned them.
I do know that the idle adjust is under a plug on all cv carbs installed on Harleys from the factory ( '88 sportys, '90 Big Twins up to 2006).
IF the plug is removed, then it is possible that the carb has been monkeyed with.
If it is in place then the carb is likely bone stock- which is good as it is a known quantity ( there is nothing worse than a card damaged by ham-handed attempts.)
the carb does need to come off to have the plug removed. the idle adjust is made richer by backing out the screw under the plug--- turn too far out and the screw falls out and the bike won't idle, turn in too far/too hard and the needle seat can be damaged forever.
other adjustments are low speed jet, needle, checking the accel pump and the diaphragm on the slide
have you been to nightrider.com yet ?
I think it's all there.
This is all assuming that your "10 electra glide" was a typo- if it's a 2010 you have EFI
Mike
Last edited by mkguitar; 03-19-2012 at 12:40 AM.
#7
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#8
thanks for the info. I did go to nightrider, excellent site! it makes things simple and clear. why is there a plug blocking the idle mixture? because of E.P.A.? Is it at all possible to take the plug out without taking the carb off? by the way, the bike is a 2001 electra glide not a 2010.
thanks
thanks
#9
the plug is there to make the bike compliant from the factory.
carb has to come off for this, it's not hard to remove the carb, it is supported by the air cleaner to the heads, the carb is push-fit into a rubber manifold seal.
easy.
you might want to check for intake leaks first before removing the carb.
any difference hot motor/ cold motor ?
Mike
carb has to come off for this, it's not hard to remove the carb, it is supported by the air cleaner to the heads, the carb is push-fit into a rubber manifold seal.
easy.
you might want to check for intake leaks first before removing the carb.
any difference hot motor/ cold motor ?
Mike
#10
thanks for the info. I did go to nightrider, excellent site! it makes things simple and clear. why is there a plug blocking the idle mixture? because of E.P.A.? Is it at all possible to take the plug out without taking the carb off? by the way, the bike is a 2001 electra glide not a 2010.
thanks
thanks