LED's For Ground Lighting
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 902
Likes: 3
From: Cincinnati, OH
So to the guys who have LEDS installed, any tips on the fenders? This kit will have strips for both wheels. Front suggests to put the strips on the forks and face inwards to wheel. But on line seems to appear like the LEDS are in the actual fender facing down onto the tire. Rear wheel tips?
ANY tips would be helpful.
THANKS!
ANY tips would be helpful.
THANKS!
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 222
Likes: 1
From: Massachusetts
I just installed Joe's super bright white kit on my Road King and I bought some extra lights too. For the front fender I put two 9-light strips inside the top of the front fender (one on each side of the tire) and two 9-light strips inside the back of the front fender. So I have 4 strips inside my front fender. I did not put them on the inside of the forks or are the backside of the caliper. I thought about the caliper but decided against it because I didn't want to be able to see the strips. I ran the wire leads up the brake cables. I think it looks great! I can take some pics of it for you later tonight and post them up here is you'd like. Just drop me a PM.
Finished up my install this past weekend. Took my time and did it on Sat/Sun. Have not rode since its been cold in the AM all week. Killing ME! But I wanted to allow the TAPE used on the LED strips to cure out in the warm garage to get the best bond.
SO my question is to those who installed...at the PLUG joints where you used an extention included to plug into the strip...did you silicon the plugs to keep water/moisture out? I have a few places where the ground effect strips are on the frame as are the plug joint/connections. Should I silicone the tiny wires where they go into the plug? Not actually the plug connections themselves. Just where the wire goes into the plug.
I e-mailed Joe and got no reply. I also had 1 set of 3 LEDS on the strip go bad on the front wheel after install. I had already run the LONG 6' lead under the tank and had it all zip tied inplace. So I chose to just cut away the bad 9 LED strip and solder in a new 9 LED strip/piece that I had left over from the tank LED strip. I insulated it and heat shrink...looks like OEM JOE and it works perfect now. Just a bad part. I had tested them all before beginning the install...just went bad I guess.
I'm happy with the kit...but so far not feeling the love of return of call or e-mail I made to JOE this past week/end.
Thanks for any help/suggestions. Not to bash Joe, the product is very nice. Hope it holds up well. Just had some questions and pondered what to do at this junction.
Thus far no riding on the bike yet...but I hope to detail it out tomorrow and ride the weekend with these new LED's!
THANKS!
SO my question is to those who installed...at the PLUG joints where you used an extention included to plug into the strip...did you silicon the plugs to keep water/moisture out? I have a few places where the ground effect strips are on the frame as are the plug joint/connections. Should I silicone the tiny wires where they go into the plug? Not actually the plug connections themselves. Just where the wire goes into the plug.
I e-mailed Joe and got no reply. I also had 1 set of 3 LEDS on the strip go bad on the front wheel after install. I had already run the LONG 6' lead under the tank and had it all zip tied inplace. So I chose to just cut away the bad 9 LED strip and solder in a new 9 LED strip/piece that I had left over from the tank LED strip. I insulated it and heat shrink...looks like OEM JOE and it works perfect now. Just a bad part. I had tested them all before beginning the install...just went bad I guess.
I'm happy with the kit...but so far not feeling the love of return of call or e-mail I made to JOE this past week/end.
Thanks for any help/suggestions. Not to bash Joe, the product is very nice. Hope it holds up well. Just had some questions and pondered what to do at this junction.
Thus far no riding on the bike yet...but I hope to detail it out tomorrow and ride the weekend with these new LED's!
THANKS!
My biggest concern with the joe florida kit is it doesn't seem as plug and play as some others. I am not mechanically nor electrically inclined. Which kit would you all say is the simplest install. And can it be connected to the acc switch in the fairing?
I think FJ’s stuff is plug and play. Not to disagree…or cause insult.
All his LED strips have the modular plugs on them. And his extensions that are included in the kit do too. And the Remote control box has the plugs on them too. You can’t mess that up…they only plug in one way and are pretty safe. The LEDS appear to be pretty good quality too. Remote box is very good too. Remotes, you get 2, for your keychain have a button guard for pocket use so you don’t turn the LEDs off and on by mistake.
You do need to solder in the inline fuse. He provides that, the fuse holder and 2 fuses – both 3 amps. And plenty of red/black striped wire for this procedure. I wondered why he didn’t have the inline fuse holder already done for you but depending on the BIKE and available size to hid things…I see why he didn’t.
I chose the 207 LED Multi Color kit. Quality was very good. All worked. His instructions were pretty good too. Plenty of warnings to seal the ends of the LED strips when you cut them to length depending on your bike and location or even if you don’t need to cut them he provides the silicon sealer tube too. You have all you need but your time in the kit. This was very nice!
Only 2 things to add…
One - in the directions he should mention to put the inline fuse in a place that is easily accessible. I had mine under the seat near the control box – I had more room for the box there vs. other places. Seemed logical to put the fuse near the remote box as you connect the fuse holder right up to the battery. And all worked as I planned. UNTIL I was out for the first time with the bike and the 3amp fuse blew as I was showing the system and flashing thru the modes. WHAM all went dark. So on the road you are not removing the seat to get to the fuse…least not on my bike easily. Once back at the garage I removed the seat and found the 3amp blown and I relocated the inline fuse to a location behind one of the cosmetic kick plates by my hard bags. Now I can pop the plate off and change out a fuse if need. I also chose to up the fuse to a 5amp. Someone on another thread mentioned that too…that is the 3amp was too small and he upped to 5 and all is working well on his LED set too.
Two – everyone is talking about the great service? I called FJ 2 times and left voice mail messages and I e-mailed him 3 times. 1 thru his own web site and 2 on my own using his e-mail address. NOTHING in a reply or returned phone call. I had some installation questions and one issue with a failed front fork LED strip. Nothing. So his claim of “no mumbo-jumbo” for returns…I’m not seeing or feeling it since I can’t even get him to return my contact based on some simple questions that I had. Either way I went ahead with the install and all is working very well.
Past that, I’ve had many comments on how nice the bike looks at night and how KEWL the LEDs look.
GOOD LUCK on your choice! I’m sure many systems will work…and there are a lot of choices.
PS> In FJ's directions he says to NOT connect his controll box to the aux switch on the bike. Not sure why. I went straight to the battery. This way the remote works with the ACC/BIKE off. I think if you wired into the plug that runs to the AUX Switch on your bike...it would only be HOT when the ACC/BIKE was ON. So you could not run your LEDS unless this was the case. Again, since its fused and the remotes actually controll the MODES and ON/OFF...I think its good to go right to the battery directly. Just my thought...
All his LED strips have the modular plugs on them. And his extensions that are included in the kit do too. And the Remote control box has the plugs on them too. You can’t mess that up…they only plug in one way and are pretty safe. The LEDS appear to be pretty good quality too. Remote box is very good too. Remotes, you get 2, for your keychain have a button guard for pocket use so you don’t turn the LEDs off and on by mistake.
You do need to solder in the inline fuse. He provides that, the fuse holder and 2 fuses – both 3 amps. And plenty of red/black striped wire for this procedure. I wondered why he didn’t have the inline fuse holder already done for you but depending on the BIKE and available size to hid things…I see why he didn’t.
I chose the 207 LED Multi Color kit. Quality was very good. All worked. His instructions were pretty good too. Plenty of warnings to seal the ends of the LED strips when you cut them to length depending on your bike and location or even if you don’t need to cut them he provides the silicon sealer tube too. You have all you need but your time in the kit. This was very nice!
Only 2 things to add…
One - in the directions he should mention to put the inline fuse in a place that is easily accessible. I had mine under the seat near the control box – I had more room for the box there vs. other places. Seemed logical to put the fuse near the remote box as you connect the fuse holder right up to the battery. And all worked as I planned. UNTIL I was out for the first time with the bike and the 3amp fuse blew as I was showing the system and flashing thru the modes. WHAM all went dark. So on the road you are not removing the seat to get to the fuse…least not on my bike easily. Once back at the garage I removed the seat and found the 3amp blown and I relocated the inline fuse to a location behind one of the cosmetic kick plates by my hard bags. Now I can pop the plate off and change out a fuse if need. I also chose to up the fuse to a 5amp. Someone on another thread mentioned that too…that is the 3amp was too small and he upped to 5 and all is working well on his LED set too.
Two – everyone is talking about the great service? I called FJ 2 times and left voice mail messages and I e-mailed him 3 times. 1 thru his own web site and 2 on my own using his e-mail address. NOTHING in a reply or returned phone call. I had some installation questions and one issue with a failed front fork LED strip. Nothing. So his claim of “no mumbo-jumbo” for returns…I’m not seeing or feeling it since I can’t even get him to return my contact based on some simple questions that I had. Either way I went ahead with the install and all is working very well.
Past that, I’ve had many comments on how nice the bike looks at night and how KEWL the LEDs look.
GOOD LUCK on your choice! I’m sure many systems will work…and there are a lot of choices.
PS> In FJ's directions he says to NOT connect his controll box to the aux switch on the bike. Not sure why. I went straight to the battery. This way the remote works with the ACC/BIKE off. I think if you wired into the plug that runs to the AUX Switch on your bike...it would only be HOT when the ACC/BIKE was ON. So you could not run your LEDS unless this was the case. Again, since its fused and the remotes actually controll the MODES and ON/OFF...I think its good to go right to the battery directly. Just my thought...
Last edited by GMRO; Apr 12, 2012 at 03:03 PM. Reason: Extra Note
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