With my stock compensator, hot start lockups were common along with grinding clunking and banging. With the SE comp it's happened twice in the last 18 months or so.

My EITMS is always on.

 

Yeah, my 2010 Ultramacts the same way. I have 19,500 on it. Going in next week for the 20k service and I am going to mention it and see if I can get them to spring for a new SE compensator under warranty or if I pay the difference in price.

 

You shouldn't have to do any tricks to get your bike to start other than not waiting for the check engine light to go out. This lets the bike start on the ECM before the V&H TP gets involved. You should do/have a current draw test during start. The service manual for YOUR MODEL YEAR will have the maximum draw listed. If you/someone have tightened your battery cable at the starter you may have rotated the terminal inside the solenoid. The plunger in there is designed to take some misalignment and will still try to start the bike. I have seen stock 88 cu in motors draw 350 amps on start because of this alignment issue. These AGM batteries are pretty bad *** but they can't handle that kind of current draw with out some serious riding time in between to FULLY recharge. It will also cut the life of the battery way down. You can buy a solenoid service kit aftermarket for less than 25 bucks and it is pretty easy to replace if you follow the service manual. You can check the contacts on with the starter on the bike by removing the end cap of the solenoid. You will need the starter on the bench to rebuild the solenoid. If the contacts under the plunger are fretted and burned rebuild the solenoid. If you have a huge current draw your ECM is seeing a voltage drop below it's low limit and causing problems with other functions (TBW). I think you should enable your EITMS.