Hot start problem
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Santee, CA
Hot start problem
2010 UltraClassic, 96 inch, Stage 1.
On a hot start the engine seems to lock after one revolution, clunking noise also. I release starter button and the fuel pump will re-prime, retry the starter and it fires up. This seems to only happen if bike is shut off for a few minutes, fuel fillup, etc. The problem is, twice within the last 6 months, after restart and pulling out of the parking lot the MIL will come on and I have no throttle response. I have to pull over, shut the bike down for about 30 seconds and restart.
Any ideas?
Also - how many of you have the Engine Idle Temerature Management System enabled?
On a hot start the engine seems to lock after one revolution, clunking noise also. I release starter button and the fuel pump will re-prime, retry the starter and it fires up. This seems to only happen if bike is shut off for a few minutes, fuel fillup, etc. The problem is, twice within the last 6 months, after restart and pulling out of the parking lot the MIL will come on and I have no throttle response. I have to pull over, shut the bike down for about 30 seconds and restart.
Any ideas?
Also - how many of you have the Engine Idle Temerature Management System enabled?
Last edited by drtimmer; Mar 23, 2012 at 07:07 PM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
a motor always stops on the compression stroke.
on my Harleys I am in the habit of giving the starter button a flick- which will either get the piston over top dead center ( overcoming the static compression) or cause the piston to rebound. ( my FXR is a high compression bike)
Either way, when I next apply the starter the motor is able to build a little momentum and turn over.
When hot, compression could be higher. But also the starter and wiring is hot. Hot electricals have more resistance. ( remember that old chevys might have trouble restarting when hot)
Pull clean and reattach the battery cables at both ends- unlikley on a bike as new as yours, but if you see any powder coming out of the cable insulation, that the wire breaking down. and the cable will need replaced.
my eitms in on-
cause when the bike is standing still it'll help to cool the motor by pumping air through the rear cylinder.
It has no effect when the throttle is applied or the bike is moving.
I will sometimes activate it manually by rolling and holding the throttle forward
Mike
on my Harleys I am in the habit of giving the starter button a flick- which will either get the piston over top dead center ( overcoming the static compression) or cause the piston to rebound. ( my FXR is a high compression bike)
Either way, when I next apply the starter the motor is able to build a little momentum and turn over.
When hot, compression could be higher. But also the starter and wiring is hot. Hot electricals have more resistance. ( remember that old chevys might have trouble restarting when hot)
Pull clean and reattach the battery cables at both ends- unlikley on a bike as new as yours, but if you see any powder coming out of the cable insulation, that the wire breaking down. and the cable will need replaced.
my eitms in on-
cause when the bike is standing still it'll help to cool the motor by pumping air through the rear cylinder.
It has no effect when the throttle is applied or the bike is moving.
I will sometimes activate it manually by rolling and holding the throttle forward
Mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Mar 23, 2012 at 07:29 PM.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21
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From: Santee, CA
Check electrical connections - no problem found.
I've been doing the quick hit on the starter button then start as normal and that seems to work as Mike said.
I'm running a Vance and Hines ThrottlePak but this problem occured before install also. No other power adders other than dealer Stage 1 download. Now that I'm used to the ThrottlePak I would hate to give it up.
I've been doing the quick hit on the starter button then start as normal and that seems to work as Mike said.
I'm running a Vance and Hines ThrottlePak but this problem occured before install also. No other power adders other than dealer Stage 1 download. Now that I'm used to the ThrottlePak I would hate to give it up.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 21
From: Delaware
I had hard starts like that before too. I've stopped waiting for the fuel pump to cycle when doing a hot start, and it seems to not happen anymore. It may be just because it hasn't been really hot since I started doing this, but I read about doing that on this board somewhere and have had success.
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 473
Likes: 0
From: The Peach State!
How many miles on your bike? As stated in the last post it could be the compensator. I changed mine on my '09 at 15 k just to get the p.o.s. out of there. Starts great and runs great with the S.E. comp. I highly recommend it. You can do it yourself in about 4 hours for $300.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
don't wait on fuel pump and it starts alot better when hot. Makes check engine light flash back on for a sec on mine but it goes right back out and starts easily.
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Oklahoma
There may be a service bulletin on going into limp mode. There are several connectors in the wire between the twist grip sensor and the throttle motor. Pulling each apart and daubing on some dielectric grease and re-assembling has at least a chance of clearing up your other problem. There is a small connector inside the handle bar. You must pull the twist grip sensor out carefully somewhere around one foot and you will see the little connector. I believe there is another one in the vicinity of the headlight, the big ECM plug, and the plug on the throttle position motor. That should get most of them. Best double check me if you have a manual. Search for the service bulletin also, have any warranty time left?