Front Brake Lever Play.....
Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,187
Likes: 11
From: Ladera Ranch, CA
Front Brake Lever Play.....
Ok, this is kind of a reverse issue. I don't have too much play in the lever.....I don't have enough!!
I just changed out my stock front pads for Lyndall Golds. In changing them out with some wear on the stockers, my caliper pistons had to go back into the calipers further. I get that. But now, I grab the front brake and am INSTANTLY on the brakes. I'm used to about 1/2" of play in my lever. I tried bleeding off some of the pressure.....didn't work. What I don't want is my pads to wear down prematurely due to rubbing on the rotors by being too close and also being used to the lever with a certain play in it, I don't want to grab a handful in an emergency situation and lock that font end up. That's what I'm REALLY afraid of.
So how the hell do you ADD play to the front lever......add air to the system and bleed it through again?
I just changed out my stock front pads for Lyndall Golds. In changing them out with some wear on the stockers, my caliper pistons had to go back into the calipers further. I get that. But now, I grab the front brake and am INSTANTLY on the brakes. I'm used to about 1/2" of play in my lever. I tried bleeding off some of the pressure.....didn't work. What I don't want is my pads to wear down prematurely due to rubbing on the rotors by being too close and also being used to the lever with a certain play in it, I don't want to grab a handful in an emergency situation and lock that font end up. That's what I'm REALLY afraid of.
So how the hell do you ADD play to the front lever......add air to the system and bleed it through again?
Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,187
Likes: 11
From: Ladera Ranch, CA
Yup.....they're spotless. The calipers were rebuilt about 1000 miles ago when I had them chromed. I cleaned the hell out of them anyways when I put the new pads on and added lube to the pins and the tops of the pads so they retract. Dirt and dust isn't causing this problem. I know why its doing what its doing. The pads are thicker, which is pushing the pistons further back into the calipers once they were installed, thus subtracting play in my lever. I'm ready to just drain my master cylinder, pump air into the system and bleed them all over again, IF that will give me my lever play back.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 69
From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
This is not normal. There is something else causing this issue. I would have to check and see if the calipers/pistons were correctly reassembled after the chroming. Could there be a layer of chrome in the piston barrels that may be preventing full retraction? Just thinking out loud.
I installed Lyndall Zplus pads and have essentially the same lever travel as before because my stock pads were still in great shape.
And by the way, never introduce air into your brake lines to try to fix a problem. That makes no sense because that is the absolute opposite condition that you want.
I installed Lyndall Zplus pads and have essentially the same lever travel as before because my stock pads were still in great shape.
And by the way, never introduce air into your brake lines to try to fix a problem. That makes no sense because that is the absolute opposite condition that you want.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 196
Likes: 2
From: Murfreesboro, TN
If you have added fluid during the wear cycle of your previous pads, you may have too much fluid in the reservoir. You say you released pressure. Try taking the cover off and seeing how much fluid is in there. You need an air cushion in the reservoir or the pressure cannot dissipate.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,699
Likes: 15
From: Qualicum Beach, B.C. CAN
I have the same problem. Not much play, although the brakes work normal.
Read somewhere that it could be a problem in the master cylinder piston, with the small bleed hole being plugged.
Never been able to fix mine by bleeding, changing fluids, brake lines, and cursing at it.
Bought a m/c piston rebuild kit last fall. Cheap enough.
Just haven't got around to doing it.....
Maybe you could do yours and let me know if the problem gets fixed.
Sorry I don't have a link to the thread about this.
Read somewhere that it could be a problem in the master cylinder piston, with the small bleed hole being plugged.
Never been able to fix mine by bleeding, changing fluids, brake lines, and cursing at it.
Bought a m/c piston rebuild kit last fall. Cheap enough.
Just haven't got around to doing it.....
Maybe you could do yours and let me know if the problem gets fixed.
Sorry I don't have a link to the thread about this.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 173
From: Simi Valley, CA
I don't think the pad thickness has anything to do with your concern, unless you added fluid to the master cylinder at some point in the past. If you ever added fluid with somewhat worn pads, and then install new pads, the master cylinder may be overfull. In an extreme case, if the master cylinder is overfull, then it's possible that the brake pads wouldn't release - but you should have noticed excessive drag if that were the case. In fact, if that were the case you probably wouldn't have even been able to install the caliper over the rotor.
I would think it's possible that you may have had a slight amount of air in the system before installing the new pads and when pushing the pistons back into their bores the air may have been pushed back into the master cylinder, resulting in a firmer lever now.
I'm not saying that's the problem, I'm just trying to think of potential causes.
I think the bottom line is this... Check for excessive drag. If none, then there is no problem.
Changing pads should have no effect on the brake lever travel or feel provided you didn't open the hydraulic system (i.e., bleeders). If you did bleed the system or otherwise open the bleeders, then all bets are off.
I see absolutely no reason to introduce air into the system intentionally and then re-bleeed the system.
If your brakes do not have excessive drag, my suggestion would be to simply ride it and you'll get used to the new feel in a short time.
I would think it's possible that you may have had a slight amount of air in the system before installing the new pads and when pushing the pistons back into their bores the air may have been pushed back into the master cylinder, resulting in a firmer lever now.
I'm not saying that's the problem, I'm just trying to think of potential causes.
I think the bottom line is this... Check for excessive drag. If none, then there is no problem.
Changing pads should have no effect on the brake lever travel or feel provided you didn't open the hydraulic system (i.e., bleeders). If you did bleed the system or otherwise open the bleeders, then all bets are off.
I see absolutely no reason to introduce air into the system intentionally and then re-bleeed the system.
If your brakes do not have excessive drag, my suggestion would be to simply ride it and you'll get used to the new feel in a short time.
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Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Ladera Ranch, CA
I pretty much replaced all the fluid when I put on the chrome master cylinder and the new brake lines (for the beach bars) and 6 months later, the chrome calipers. I flushed it at the caliper install when I was bleeding the system. I have not had the lid off since. I see what you are saying about maybe too much fluid. I will head out to the garage in a few and pop the lid and see. Damn.....good angle!!
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Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 8
From: General Sherman's Christmas Location 1864
If you pull the lid, you might want to verify the fluid is actully retruning thru the port into the reservior.
It must "retrun"
But with new fliid 1000 miles ago it may have picked up a piece of debree
It must "retrun"
But with new fliid 1000 miles ago it may have picked up a piece of debree
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 173
From: Simi Valley, CA
I'll say it again... Check your wheel for excessive drag from the brakes.
All of the potential causes identified in the previous posts, i.e., stuck or restricted caliper piston movement, overfull master cylinder, restricted compensating (return) port in the master cylinder; these are all plausible.
But, any of the problems identified will result in excessive brake drag because they will all prevent the caliper from releasing when you release the brake lever. So, check for drag.
If you do not have excessive drag on the brakes, you can eliminate all of these identified potential causes from the equation.
All of the potential causes identified in the previous posts, i.e., stuck or restricted caliper piston movement, overfull master cylinder, restricted compensating (return) port in the master cylinder; these are all plausible.
But, any of the problems identified will result in excessive brake drag because they will all prevent the caliper from releasing when you release the brake lever. So, check for drag.
If you do not have excessive drag on the brakes, you can eliminate all of these identified potential causes from the equation.