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I TRIED to pull the wires in my 10" MBBs today.... i managed to get the right side controll wires through (after about 6 tries and some help from my other half)...when i unwrapped/untaped the end that i pulled through 4 of the pins at the end of the wires were broken.....anyone else have thishappen..what did you do? i used about 6 inches of shrink wrap to cover the pins..i also staggered the pins so they weren'tall trying to make the bend at the same time......
then i tried to pull the TBW through and the pulling line i had broke...which means i'd have to pul out the wires, that i just fought to get through, BACK OUT to get another pull line for the TBW through..
Am i missing something? something i'm doing totally wrong? I've been through the thread of "instructions" and see about a million guys getting a copy of the instructions and i'm thinking "did they all do it?..am i an idiot for NOT being able to do this?"
I think i might conceed and just take the bars somewhere to get the wires pulled for me... I hate the feeling of defeat but after seeing the condition of what i managed to pull through i think i might be better off...
...and i figured i did all the tear down and reassembley so i saved a ton of money there...
I'm in the middle of doing a painted inner fairing (which i got mounted today and it looks AWESOME) and i'm also doing new Magnum black pearl brake and clutch lines....
I even got some Screaming Eagle tank badges to top it off...
Progress is being made..i hope to have it all wrapped up in about a week when my cables come in...
To those that have pulled the wires themselves...hats off to you
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I just did monkeys over the weekend. I took 1/8" nylon rope and tied a knot in the very end, then using a small zip tie and put it at the knot about 2-3" above the pins, then wrapped wires, rope and pins with electrical tape and push and pulled. I used the zip tie so I was pulling on the wires and not the pins themself. Used a little lube as well
This seemed easier than swapping my switches for Chrome ones, I've broken the start one twice now.
I had to re-solder a couple of new pins back on when I pulled wires for my monkey bars install. I used weed whacker line to pull wires, pulled from above the pins, still managed to break a couple of them off. No big deal to solder up some new pin ends.
I had to re-solder a couple of new pins back on when I pulled wires for my monkey bars install. I used weed whacker line to pull wires, pulled from above the pins, still managed to break a couple of them off. No big deal to solder up some new pin ends.
DON'T DO IT THE WAY YAFFE INSTRUCTS YOU !!!!!!!! I did Monkey Bars following Yaffe's instructions and it was a pain , go to www.brcustomcycles.com , go to the video section and watch how Bill does it , much easier , on my last bars I followed his instructions , I got a 6' pull chain like for ceiling fans , took 3-4 wires and heat shrunk them on , dropped back 1/2" heat shrunk on another 3-4 wires and so on , removed the black cover accept 4" where in goes into the bars at the top , pushed the wire and guided it with the chain , took about 3 minutes , heat shrinking like Yaffe says is the hard way
One of the reasons I went with WO577 bars was the bends were more of an even radius and the wire holes were generous. The pointy bends on some bars have to make the job more of a PITA.
One of the reasons I went with WO577 bars was the bends were more of an even radius and the wire holes were generous. The pointy bends on some bars have to make the job more of a PITA.
I hear ya on that...the 577s were higher then i was looking to go (i'm only 5'7")...i wanted 10's ..... i know WILD 1 just came out with the 578s which are suppsoed to be 10s..i saw a pair the other day...they didn't look as high as the PYO 10s..but i'm sure those type bars are MUCH easier to pull through... i already have the PYO 10s and really like them... so i'll have to struggle
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