Replaced clutch cable-- what did I do? Or what am I supposed to do?
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Road Master
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,032
Likes: 9
From: Queen Creek, AZ
Replaced clutch cable-- what did I do? Or what am I supposed to do?
This winter I put on 10" monkey bars. While riding this spring, I realized I needed a little longer clutch cable as clutch wouldn't engage when turned sharply one way or the other. So I picked up a +3 cable from J&P (right up the road) on their recommendation and installed it tonight. Really (for my experience level) went pretty well until the end when I'm trying to adjust the cable. I can't get it adjusted enough to Get rid of enough slack to make the lever work. What am I doing wrong or what am I supposed to do?
Things I'm thinking..
-do I need to adjust the clutch??
-is the ball/ramp thing somehow messed up...it sure seemed right, checked it multiple times
-did I buy too long of a cable? Doesn't seem like it...fits well.
As always...thanks guys...and I sure can't wait until I'm good enough that some of this stuff becomes easy.
Steve
Things I'm thinking..
-do I need to adjust the clutch??
-is the ball/ramp thing somehow messed up...it sure seemed right, checked it multiple times
-did I buy too long of a cable? Doesn't seem like it...fits well.
As always...thanks guys...and I sure can't wait until I'm good enough that some of this stuff becomes easy.
Steve
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 732
Likes: 2
From: SE Alabama
One thing you might want to look at is whats called the travel of the cable. Sounds like the travel might be to long for what your needing. The cable you should be looking for is a
+4 with a length of 66 11/16" with a travel of 3 1/2.
or
+6 with a length of 68 11/16" with a travel of 3 1/2
I have 16" apes and I use the +10 cable. Hope this helps. Here is the Magnum website I used. http://www.magnumshielding.com/store...2010&x=73&y=10
+4 with a length of 66 11/16" with a travel of 3 1/2.
or
+6 with a length of 68 11/16" with a travel of 3 1/2
I have 16" apes and I use the +10 cable. Hope this helps. Here is the Magnum website I used. http://www.magnumshielding.com/store...2010&x=73&y=10
From what I gathered:
1.) create slack in cable by collapsing (thread to each other) the cable adjusters.
2.) in primary, loosen locknut and lightly seat the thread adjuster.
3.) turn out thread adjuster between 1/2-1 turn (I use 3/4)
4.) tighten down locknut, making sure thread adjuster stays in place.
5.) pull lever 2-3x to set ball/ramp (no more than 3)
6.) adjust cable so the clutch cable ferrel pulls out no more than 1/16-1/8" from clutch lever. tug around on cable to make sure slack is removed on this adjustment.
That's about all I know ...
1.) create slack in cable by collapsing (thread to each other) the cable adjusters.
2.) in primary, loosen locknut and lightly seat the thread adjuster.
3.) turn out thread adjuster between 1/2-1 turn (I use 3/4)
4.) tighten down locknut, making sure thread adjuster stays in place.
5.) pull lever 2-3x to set ball/ramp (no more than 3)
6.) adjust cable so the clutch cable ferrel pulls out no more than 1/16-1/8" from clutch lever. tug around on cable to make sure slack is removed on this adjustment.
That's about all I know ...
Last edited by troop; Apr 13, 2012 at 09:28 AM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
Likes: 14
From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
Troop, and others ... First step is to LOOSEN cable adjusters and allow slack in cable.
You don't REMOVE the slack until the mechanical adjustment is set correctly at the clutch.
You take the slack out with the adjuster after you have set the correct internal contact, and back off the internal adjustment whatever the manual tells you, often about 3/4 of a turn.
By tightening the cable adjuster before the internal adjustment is set will defeat your ability to adjust the internal contact correctly.
You don't REMOVE the slack until the mechanical adjustment is set correctly at the clutch.
You take the slack out with the adjuster after you have set the correct internal contact, and back off the internal adjustment whatever the manual tells you, often about 3/4 of a turn.
By tightening the cable adjuster before the internal adjustment is set will defeat your ability to adjust the internal contact correctly.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 766
Likes: 6
From: South Dakota
I installed a set of 12" with a +6 a couple years ago.. I'm at the very limit when it comes to travel. After correctly adjusting at clutch I have to back my cable adjustment out nearly all the way as well.
I used Motion Pro as that's all I could get without waiting 3+ weeks. For some reason Magnum, Barnett and another that I can't recall were all backordered.
I used Motion Pro as that's all I could get without waiting 3+ weeks. For some reason Magnum, Barnett and another that I can't recall were all backordered.
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 601
Likes: 5
From: Pinellas County, Florida
I found this a while ago and bookmarked it
Troop, and others ... First step is to LOOSEN cable adjusters and allow slack in cable.
You don't REMOVE the slack until the mechanical adjustment is set correctly at the clutch.
You take the slack out with the adjuster after you have set the correct internal contact, and back off the internal adjustment whatever the manual tells you, often about 3/4 of a turn.
By tightening the cable adjuster before the internal adjustment is set will defeat your ability to adjust the internal contact correctly.
You don't REMOVE the slack until the mechanical adjustment is set correctly at the clutch.
You take the slack out with the adjuster after you have set the correct internal contact, and back off the internal adjustment whatever the manual tells you, often about 3/4 of a turn.
By tightening the cable adjuster before the internal adjustment is set will defeat your ability to adjust the internal contact correctly.
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Road Master
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,032
Likes: 9
From: Queen Creek, AZ
ok, so it sounds like i do need to adjust the clutch on the primary side. i was just assuming (wrongly apparently) that if i was just changing the cable i wouldn't have to go through that. that sounds a little tricky....i'll read up on it.
as far as travel and the cluth cable. here is the one that J&P recommended for me. He said it's a dyna cable, but the same thing as street glide, only 3 inches longer that FLHX stock.
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/520-936
would anyone be able to confirm that having the wrong size cable isn't the reason for my problems before i take the inspection cover off and tackle adjusting the clutch.
as far as travel and the cluth cable. here is the one that J&P recommended for me. He said it's a dyna cable, but the same thing as street glide, only 3 inches longer that FLHX stock.
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/520-936
would anyone be able to confirm that having the wrong size cable isn't the reason for my problems before i take the inspection cover off and tackle adjusting the clutch.
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It actually is a pretty simple task and it only takes about 15 minutes. Give it a try before replacing the cable. Tip is if you don't have upright stand, put a 2"x4" under jiffy stand to get bike upright as possible. No primary fluid will spill out this way. Also, a socket works better on the locknut vs. a box end wrench (spark plug socket is great).
Last edited by troop; Apr 13, 2012 at 10:07 AM.
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 732
Likes: 2
From: SE Alabama
According to the part number, the cable you bought is 69 11/16 in length with a 3 in travel. Cable is a little long for what you need but the travel is shorter. With a shorter travel you should be able to get it adjusted, but with the shorter travel it might not fully disengage the clutch. Do you have the cable they removed from your bike?