Can anyone help?

Cash is a little tight…and I’m thinking of removing my rear wheel to take to an Indy for new tire install/balance.

While I got the wheel off I’d like to change rear brake pads.

I got a great deal on brakes and a tire from Jake Wilson. My local Indy gets about $30 a wheel – includes balance.

BUT I’ve no service manual and no exploded parts view or torque specs.

I’ve the tools…and feel with my lift table I can do the work of R&R the wheel.

Any tricks? Or tips? What are the torque specs for rear axle nut? And brake/calipers torque? Nothing shoots out or falls out when the axle is removed? I see 2 cams on the rear axle; figure they hold the belt tension? TIP to square up the rear wheel? Seems like they hit a notch on the yoke/suspension as you rotate them?

Should I lube something while wheel is out of bike? Bearings exposed or sealed? Spacer?

Any help/guidance would be more than greatly appreciated. Weather this weekend in PA is to be cold…so I figured now is as good a time as any.

THANK YOU!

 

Put a mark on the adjustment plate before you loosen axle,pur antiseize on axle before assembly as for the brakes take off m/c cover and compress piston remove two bolts and pads will fall out goes together the same way don't forget to pump brakes before you ride

 

Watch where the spacers go when you pull the axle out. Antisieze the axle when you reinstall it. I'd trust the twist method for setting the belt tightness (you should be able to twist the belt to about 45 degrees). Check it a few times rotating the wheel between checks. The cams on the axle should keep the wheel straight but pay attention to how the belt is riding on the pulley (do this when you are rotating the wheel to check tension).
I believe the axle torque is 105 ft lbs (going from memory on that and mine is a 2008).
Also you may have to loosen pipes and/or saddle bag brackets to remove the axle.

 

This site will you just look up your bike http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....m_oem/hdmc.asp

 

You say "money is tight".....but, believe me, investing in a SHOP MANUAL will be one of the best things you can ever acquire...IF you want to do your own work....it will pay for itself in a bigazz hurry!! AND....you won't have to ask all these questions over and over......

 

Agree! You'll save it with this job alone. Cost is about an hour's labour at the local dealer. Get the factory service manual, it answers all your questions and will be a great read on sleepless nights!

 

KEWL!

Any suggestions as to where to get the manual? Gotta be a better place than at the dealer? Since its 2006 - I'd doubt it'd be instock at a dealer. My thought was to do the wheel/tire change this weekend per the cruddy weather forecast.

THANKS for all the help/info!!!

 

When I changed my back tire it said lightly tap with a brass hammer to push the axel out. Yea right we ended up with using a air chisel with a piont tip on 1 side & me pulling as hard as I could on the other. Using 1 hand to help hold the bike up on the table. I just they didn't us any Antisieze when they put it together. I did so I hope it helps me next time.
Buy a manual. It will save you a lot of money in the long run.

 

They can be had cheaper at discount dealers, but then there is postage to add on, so unless you are a long way from your nearest dealer, that really is the best place to get one. It'll only take a phone call to find out if they have one - you may be pleasantly surprised!

I don't have a suitable manual so can't answer your original questions.

 

Rather than fooling with the exhaust, I have been removing the 2 lower shock bolts, pulling the shocks back out of the way and lowering the bike with a jack under the frame to get the axle out. Also allows you to move the swingarm up and down to get the spacers back in when they fall out on assembly.