I know it's all been gone over before but....... I just tried to run my internal wires in my 10" MBB, what a pain! I finally got the switch wires through BUT there is no room for the TBW harness (never mind the heated grip wires). I followed the directions (Yaffee) to a tee but tomorrow I'm pulling back out them and starting again. I used wire lube. I'm wondering if instead of only one harness it might be easier if I broke them down to at least two. I've done internal wires before but I that sharp angle is killing me. Any suggestions or tricks?

 

ok..this is very fresh for me as i just finished up doing a painted inner fairing swap with 10" MBBs last week.....and i will tell you that i did all of the work myself EXCEPT pulling the wires... i tried, sure i tried, and tried, and tried with help from my wonderful (much more patient then me) wife...and after alot of wrestling i got one side through and noticed that 4 of the pin connectors were broken..... so i decided to punt and PAY at the dealer....
You will hear alot of guys saying i did it this way i did it that way...i'm sure you have already seen all of the posts if you tried it yourself.
First of all i will tell you that i saw a guiy on the forum mention that he actually took his controls and his bars, boxed them up and sent them to Yaffe and they pulled the wires for him for like $100...and at this point you already have the wires out of the mollex connectors and mot likely have the wire sheathing stripped off of the bundles so you would be ripe for going this route, or at least calling Yaffe and checking into it.
I had the small chain to pull the pulling line through, i had the weed wacker line, i had the wire lube...i just couldn't get it.
One thing that i did come to realize (too late of course) after i got the bars back from the dealer & they didn't put the wires back in the mollex connectors so i had to....and a few of the pins for the TBW harness were very slightly damaged , more like just misshaped not broken, so they wouldn't lock into the connectors properly, so i having bought the Screaming eagle TBW harness (pretty much a must cuz it gets rid of the green plasitc connector mid run), i just cut the ends of the original harness and connected them to the new harness.... then a light bulb went off..... couldn't you do this with all of the wires? therefore not having to pull the metal pin connectors through the bars?
Just something to think about IF you continue to try to DIY...
I got butt splice connectors from Radio Shack that actually had heat shrink already on them, they were really easy to work with, no solder (i know i'll hear about how you HAVE TO solder, but i really think they'll be fine)

 

I just did mime a couple months ago. I used conduit lube and just pulled through a couple wires at a time....slowly. More push than pull.... Only pulling really when you gained some ground by pushing. Also bought the throttle without the green connector.

Used weed whacker line as the lead (put thin chain in first to get the weed whacker lin in first) and just kept retaping to new part of line when time to pull the next two wires (as opposed to pulling the weed line back and taping to same spot...this way I was always taping to Line that didn't have lube on it)

Don't have heated grips, so can't really comment on that other than once everything is through, I can't see much more getting through there.

 

These are a few things I did when I pulled my wires, although I didn't have a sharp angle I DID have the addition of the HEAT DEMON wires and 4 additional internal "music" control wires on my RKC.
1. Ditto on the SE TBW. I did't have to work about a connector coming loose or damage to the connector.
2. I switched to the chrome switch covers and used new "internals". It is an extra step to avoid splicing all of the wires...the cruise control wiring was all I needed to splice. If you extend your wires make sure the splices are staggered. This avoids a super thick mass through the small inner diameter.
3. As previously posted I didn't crimp the molex connectors until after the wiring was complete. Not having to worry about bent pins was extra piece of mind and made the process a lot easier.
4.My last suggestion would be to ensure you stagger the wires enough on the lead line. Enough space between staggers to pull a couple of wires through and around the turns before the next couple of wires made the biggest difference in ease. Some folks also take all but the first few inches of the thick black "shrink" tube off, leaving the rest of the length of wires without...I did a hybrid system and had the wires wrapped the full length with a heavy duty electrical tape in addition to the first 5-6 inches of the original sheathing material.
Hope these suggestions help.
Oh yeah, Patience and beer are always helpful in these situations. The beer more so after the pulling of the wires!

 

Just did my 12" MBB this weekend, it was a breeze.....15-20 min. Maybe into pulling wires. I did the left side first.....simple, you probably have this side done already. Now tbw side, here's what I did:
I used a small gold colored chain I got from ace hardware, it was the smallest chain with the highest strength. 36 lbs I think it was. The chain was looped into itself so the end of the chain had a llop in it.
I did the tbw first. I cut out the black connector and heat wrapped it down close to the tbw assembly, as this connector would've hit right at the top of the bend. The green connector I put a drop of super glue on each side of the insides of connector, put it back together and also put heat shrink over it.....that thing was not coming apart on me! I took one wire from the end and put it through the loop of the chain, about 2" of it looped through. Then I added an extra blank wire to the mix, then heat shrinked it all tight together and also some electrical tape to help. I used baby lotion and squirted quite a bit down into it......pulled right through. Now, with the extra wire I put in, I unhooked wires from chain, and looped just the blank wire to chain, taped it up and pulled the chain back up through the hole for the control housing wires.
For the next set, I took off the factory sheathing, and put a 2" strip of heat shrink on the loom right where it would hit the bend, and then another strip of heat shrink where they come out the bottom of the bars. I set up the chain the same way on the bottom of this loom. One wire through the loop of the chain, the rest around the chain, heat shrink and electrical tape. A good douching of baby lotion down the hole, and push wires through as you gently tug at the bottom.....to my surprise.....these glided right through with absolutely no problems. I think that leaving the het shrink off this loom helped it conform around the other wires in the bars. After I got the control wires through. I took about a 4-5" section of the factory wire covering and put it over the wires pushing it back up into the bars. Put back all connectors, and you are ready to roll. This worked extremely well for me........hope it works for you!

 

Madcardisease...you should go into business wiring these bars. Probably make a fortune!

 

My wife would shat.....between stuff scattered across the kitchen table, and using the floor in the living room for the carpeting and monkey wrestling. She wasn't happy! Luckily I only had the bike part for about 4 hrs.

 

i just did my 12s twice (had to pull and redo due to cut wire !!!!) , it was a nightmare !!!!

But get some lubricant , do the TBW first , take off factory sheathing and heat shrink or electrical tape the harness , use lots of white silicone and dish soap and enjoy !!!

 

do a search on here , there are 10s of threads on this topic.