I re-adjusted the toe sifter on my Street Glide so my boot would fit under it. Man the allen screw was tight. Does it have to be torked that tight? scared to strip the head.

 

It has Locktite on it, without it, it rattles loose.

 

As long as the end of the shifter has closed on the splines, its fine. No need to get stupid with it.

 

I know first-hand that's a known trouble spot. The shifter comes loose and you might lose it, or far worse, the splines get stripped. Not an easy or cheap fix. I'd error on the torqued tight and Loctite side.

 

http://sections.asme.org/wts/Flyers/...n%20090419.pdf

 

Hooks Law:
Steel bolts stretch .001 inches per inch
between bearing surfaces for every
30,000 PSI of tension.


I don't have a torque wrench for that.

 

steel into aluminum will "grow" together- which is why we use anti seize paste on the sparkplugs threads- to keep the aluminum threads in the heads from growing/bonding to the steel and being torn out when the plugs are changed.

the shifter does need to be tight through or as pointed out above the splines will wear if the fit is sloppy and it only gets worse.

locktite is your friend.

when removing, make sure you have the correct size tool, that there is no gunk in the recess and the tool fits all the way in. if the recess is partly worn ( and for torx and phillips heads) use valve lapping paste, or even toothpaste ( grit, not gel) to get a hold of the bolt/screw.

remember that some of the torx on the bike are T27 and a T25 will fit just enough to round out the head

Mike