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Completely disagree! I do extended warranty work every month. I had a 2007 with 16k on a bone stock 96 that wad .031 out! Hot rod high reving motors are not the culprit...lugging is... IMHO
Just out of curiosity, what is your definition of lugging?
I've heard that riding too close to 2 K is lugging.
To help answer your question....I have 2 riding buddies. My bike is a 2010, and one friend has a 2011 and the other a 2012. All stock except for a stage one on each. The 2012 has more mileage and is ridden harder...MUCH HARDER, than the 10 or 11. He has had no issues with the crank. The 10 and 11 haven't had any issues either although combined, my buddy with the 2012 has more miles on his bike! No Crank Issues or any other issues for that matter. The only issue I've had with my 10 is a brake switch recall, which I repaired myself.
I've seen threads on this and other forums regarding the newer cast cranks "slipping" and going outside the runout specs, even though the MOCO has gradually increased the max. runout spec to .012", which seems extremely large to me.
But as far as I can tell, it seems to always happen on modded motors, though.
Has anybody had this issue come up on motors that have been left factory stock?
Thanks in advance for any and all input.
do you think a crank run out would cause my bike to vibrate so bad at start up. at start up with the wheel to the left, the right handle bar and mirror shake so BAD it's got me worried, i had the shop look at it, NORMAL!! so that took care of that. i have gone as far as putting rubber door molding under the back passenger back rest to stop it from beating on the top of the tour pak, and on the front of my windshield pouch, i'm affriad sooner or later it's going to break the fairing mounts. i have checked a lot of other bikes they do vibrate some but not as bad as mine.
it's either the crank or the motor is not mounted in the frame right, that's my theory. i'm taking it back in and I'm hoping to get some more ideas from here before i do.
do you think a crank run out would cause my bike to vibrate so bad at start up. at start up with the wheel to the left, the right handle bar and mirror shake so BAD it's got me worried, i had the shop look at it, NORMAL!! so that took care of that. i have gone as far as putting rubber door molding under the back passenger back rest to stop it from beating on the top of the tour pak, and on the front of my windshield pouch, i'm affriad sooner or later it's going to break the fairing mounts. i have checked a lot of other bikes they do vibrate some but not as bad as mine.
it's either the crank or the motor is not mounted in the frame right, that's my theory. i'm taking it back in and I'm hoping to get some more ideas from here before i do.
There are a whole lot more likely items to check before assuming crankshaft run out....which is not as common as some would like to lead you to believe. Motor mounts and bolts. Upper stabilizer link, which is very common. The upper stabilizer link may even feel tight with a wrench. However, watch it where it connects to the frame as the bikes running to see if there is movement. The factory loctite makes it appear tight when it is not bottomed in the threaded frame hole. Ask me how I know! As the motor mounts loosen up with miles or heat, the vibration increases and decreases if this is the case. Tranny to motor bolts. Loose Exhaust, particularly the bracket that attaches to the tranny. General motor alignment. Grab the torque wrench and check these first,.
I would be willing to bet the ratio of crank failures to dyno runs is neck and neck. I have yet to see a bike run on a dyno that the operator did not induce and exterme amount of stress on the drivetrain... more than you ever would hot rodding around town.
I also don't understand this dyno sheet craze, look at my dyno graph it's better than yours. Its not just on Harleys but in the ATV world as well. I don't race my Harley but I do my quad... and I tell it like this, untill I am passed by a dyno on the track it doesn't mean a thing.
I know I am going to get this replied back, so I will go ahead and say it. Your bike does not need to be put on a dyno to be tuned.
and it's not just Harley's engineers cutting costs, my Powerstroke has PMR rods, incapable of staying together with more than 500hp, pre 2000 models had hot forged, same thing just trying to save a buck on a 45K$ truck. IDK maybe Ford and Harley are in cahutz, I'll let you know getting ready to sign the papers on a 2012 RK after lunch, we'll see if I can scissor the crank before the sun goes down.
alright, my dyno rant is over.
Using your dyno causing crank failure theory my crank should have failed at least 3 times. Whether or not someone wants to use a dyno to get there bike tuned is up to them. The dyno, just like any other tool , can be utilized properly by qualified personnel or used improperly by an unqualified operator.
Just depends on whose turn it is in the barrel. I have almost 43K on this 09 Ultra. Ride it in the extreme heat to the 27 degree weather. as the say CACA occurs....
Party on down the road.........
Using your dyno causing crank failure theory my crank should have failed at least 3 times. Whether or not someone wants to use a dyno to get there bike tuned is up to them. The dyno, just like any other tool , can be utilized properly by qualified personnel or used improperly by an unqualified operator.
No, my theory is not wrong. I have seen it twice in person and I bet I have read it atleast 1/2 a dozen time here. Mostly the ''b'' motor breaking the balancer loose, and a couple cranks.
You are lucky, I guess to have a good operator, most do not. I cringe everytime I am at a bike week and there is a dyno trailer set up and some poor guy lets them rape his bike on that machine... ever heard it? They go from damn near lugging to WOT then just chop the throttle and never pull in the clutch. That is one hell of a strain on the motor.
Never said the dyno was not a good tool for tuning, I said your motor does not have to be dyno'd to be tuned properly. A dyno is great, I wish I had the ability to run mine for the 1st 500 mile breakin.
No, my theory is not wrong. I have seen it twice in person and I bet I have read it atleast 1/2 a dozen time here. Mostly the ''b'' motor breaking the balancer loose, and a couple cranks.
You are lucky, I guess to have a good operator, most do not. I cringe everytime I am at a bike week and there is a dyno trailer set up and some poor guy lets them rape his bike on that machine... ever heard it? They go from damn near lugging to WOT then just chop the throttle and never pull in the clutch. That is one hell of a strain on the motor.
Never said the dyno was not a good tool for tuning, I said your motor does not have to be dyno'd to be tuned properly. A dyno is great, I wish I had the ability to run mine for the 1st 500 mile breakin.
I would say that your theory is flawed. There are bad doctors, bad mechanics and so on and so forth. The answer is not to avoid the procedure if desired or needed, it is to find a qualified person to perform it.
I would also say that I did have a similar take on dyno operators/tuner as you do, till I found a good one. But they are not easy to find.
In the end it can be very useful if done correctly, a waste of money if done hastily and possibly damaging if done badly and I have had all 3, unfortunately.
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