Overheating !!
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Tourer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 337
Likes: 56
From: Joshua Tree, CA
yes, i agree !
thanks....sumping sounds right.
BUT, where is all the oil going if it is? what is happening when it sumps? the oil is pumped into the top end, rocker boxes?? or stays in the cases? and this would be an OIL PUMP problem, then ??
also, if i turned the motor off for 10-30 minutes, wouldn't the oil return to normal, the oil pan?
the oil temp seems to get hot again very quickly after a restart.
not trying to be a pain in the ***, or beating a dead horse, but this really has me baffled.
thanks again for the help.
BUT, where is all the oil going if it is? what is happening when it sumps? the oil is pumped into the top end, rocker boxes?? or stays in the cases? and this would be an OIL PUMP problem, then ??
also, if i turned the motor off for 10-30 minutes, wouldn't the oil return to normal, the oil pan?
the oil temp seems to get hot again very quickly after a restart.
not trying to be a pain in the ***, or beating a dead horse, but this really has me baffled.
thanks again for the help.
Banned
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 648
Likes: 9
From: WV
Sumping would indicate a pump issue. Your oil pump pulls and pushes in and out of the motor, if there is a problem like a bad Oring, alignment, or damage to the gearotor on the scavenge side, the oil doesn't get picked up properly from the bottom end so it doesn't get returned to the pan, the engine is a dry sump system meaning a segregated oil reservior, its not an oil bath bottom end, so if you have a sumping problem the flywheels are churning through oil that isn't supposed to be there, more load on the engine, less oil flow, less volume of oil circulating to share te burden of the heat it does carry away, and ultimately increased oil temperature. The oil will not drain back to the pan if you let it set, its not a gravity feed application.
Banned
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 648
Likes: 9
From: WV
Post #38 and #40 show the location of the thermostat and how to remove. Not sure what your motivation is, taking it out to benchtest is ok, but you can't just remove it and run without like you can in a car, its a different type of system, if you remove it oil will never flow to the cooler.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 69
From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
You need to verify the accuracy of the gauges that you have, both the oil temp and oil pressure. I think they may be more of the problem than anything else. Have you recently squirted them directly with water during a wash job? Just check their accuracy with some other instruments, don't condemn the operation of your bike until you perform this due diligence.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Enid, OK
Not to hijack the thread but curious...when I'm tuning my PCV, it shows engine temp. Is this the cylinder head or oil temp?
09 UC was running a bit hot (I think) so did a test this weekend by letting the bike sit idle as if in traffic to test the engine temp. Yes, I know the manual says not to let our bikes idle but this test was less than what I experienced in a traffic jam earlier this week. After a few minutes it creeped to over 300. Was only 72 degrees with light wind, not nearly the conditions we would find in traffic. While still idling, forced air on the cylinder heads (electric yard blower) for about 2 minutes and no significant decrease in temp.
I see the good/optimal operating temps for the oil but do the heads run hotter? Should they run that much hotter?
Update: Never mind, just read the "Werks" site and see the heads do run much hotter. My head temps at idle were around 240 for the first few minutes so I should be good.
09 UC was running a bit hot (I think) so did a test this weekend by letting the bike sit idle as if in traffic to test the engine temp. Yes, I know the manual says not to let our bikes idle but this test was less than what I experienced in a traffic jam earlier this week. After a few minutes it creeped to over 300. Was only 72 degrees with light wind, not nearly the conditions we would find in traffic. While still idling, forced air on the cylinder heads (electric yard blower) for about 2 minutes and no significant decrease in temp.
I see the good/optimal operating temps for the oil but do the heads run hotter? Should they run that much hotter?
Update: Never mind, just read the "Werks" site and see the heads do run much hotter. My head temps at idle were around 240 for the first few minutes so I should be good.
Last edited by Ride Ultra; May 13, 2012 at 10:46 PM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,452
Likes: 666
From: Vancouver Island B.C.
Not to hijack the thread but curious...when I'm tuning my PCV, it shows engine temp. Is this the cylinder head or oil temp?
09 UC was running a bit hot (I think) so did a test this weekend by letting the bike sit idle as if in traffic to test the engine temp. Yes, I know the manual says not to let our bikes idle but this test was less than what I experienced in a traffic jam earlier this week. After a few minutes it creeped to over 300. Was only 72 degrees with light wind, not nearly the conditions we would find in traffic. While still idling, forced air on the cylinder heads (electric yard blower) for about 2 minutes and no significant decrease in temp.
I see the good/optimal operating temps for the oil but do the heads run hotter? Should they run that much hotter?
09 UC was running a bit hot (I think) so did a test this weekend by letting the bike sit idle as if in traffic to test the engine temp. Yes, I know the manual says not to let our bikes idle but this test was less than what I experienced in a traffic jam earlier this week. After a few minutes it creeped to over 300. Was only 72 degrees with light wind, not nearly the conditions we would find in traffic. While still idling, forced air on the cylinder heads (electric yard blower) for about 2 minutes and no significant decrease in temp.
I see the good/optimal operating temps for the oil but do the heads run hotter? Should they run that much hotter?
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