Shock length selection and sag
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,699
Likes: 15
From: Qualicum Beach, B.C. CAN
I think I asked you to come on down so we could go to Southbeach (Miami), eat stone crabs & lobster & drinking beer while looking at the historic architecture from the comfort of the outdoor bar, talking about shocks and motorcycling while avoiding this which we both already have at home.
Especially the 'avoiding' part.
Are we all invited, Howard? An Ohlins reunion with crabs and lobster would be a party.
For what it's worth, my #3-3s are crazy smooth. My WG is a different beast than your baggers, but they sure made my ride better- more stick in corners, no back hammering from pavement cracks, cushy when 2-up.
Make sure you do the miles for break-in though. Best ride comes after 500 miles, on mine anyway.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Snorider, we're holding our breath! Look forward to hearing of your experience. Howard probably has more options available now than when this post was current, so have your note book ready!
HDF Community Team
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 6,190
Likes: 2,419
From: USA
Shouldn't be a problem with speed bumps and the like. But a pothole, maybe. Drop down into it and have the bike settle down further than normal on the suspension, and the frame could strike the edge of the hole.
All the worse potentially with the various lines and wires zip tied to the bottom of the frame.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,624
Likes: 189
From: Newcastle, Ca.
One other limitation is the reduction in ground clearance when the wheel goes further up into the fender with increased suspension travel. Our bikes are already pretty low, and one could end up hitting the frame on the ground, with less then good results.
Shouldn't be a problem with speed bumps and the like. But a pothole, maybe. Drop down into it and have the bike settle down further than normal on the suspension, and the frame could strike the edge of the hole.
All the worse potentially with the various lines and wires zip tied to the bottom of the frame.
Shouldn't be a problem with speed bumps and the like. But a pothole, maybe. Drop down into it and have the bike settle down further than normal on the suspension, and the frame could strike the edge of the hole.
All the worse potentially with the various lines and wires zip tied to the bottom of the frame.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Not sure I follow that logic! A good quality custom built shock should have superior damping and be able to better cope with all the things we ride over, which is certainly my experience. More travel is only a good idea when considering cheap shocks with poor damping. A custom built shock, like my 3" travel Ohlins, provide a supreme ride in all circumstances and have never ever bottomed out, regardless of what we've hit and the load on the bike.
Last edited by grbrown; Jan 28, 2016 at 04:34 AM.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
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From: Bedford UK
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: USA
But that's what we're dealing with, with these bikes. Barely any suspension travel in the rear to begin with.
The stock 13" shock had just under 3" travel.
The stock 12" shock has about 2" travel.
Get into the slammed shocks and you have less than an inch in some cases.
A customized option for serious improvement could well be a smaller rear wheel and a longer stroke shock. This would keep the ride height stock and allow more suspension travel which would allow for a better ride, particularly on rougher roads.
It doesn't take much of a shock or suspension to work well enough on smooth pavement. The rougher the terrain though, the more suspension travel is needed to not bottom out, even with a heck of a good damper.
The stock 13" shock had just under 3" travel.
The stock 12" shock has about 2" travel.
Get into the slammed shocks and you have less than an inch in some cases.
A customized option for serious improvement could well be a smaller rear wheel and a longer stroke shock. This would keep the ride height stock and allow more suspension travel which would allow for a better ride, particularly on rougher roads.
It doesn't take much of a shock or suspension to work well enough on smooth pavement. The rougher the terrain though, the more suspension travel is needed to not bottom out, even with a heck of a good damper.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
We can all enjoy that quality of ride, by simply spending a little more than cheap shocks! Smooth pavement isn't the problem, it's the pot-holes and railway crossings and such-like that cause pain......
Last edited by grbrown; Jan 28, 2016 at 10:15 AM.