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Shock length selection and sag

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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 03:46 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by grbrown
2" of travel probably isn't enough, even for a top shelf shock, however 3" is perfect! I have Ohlins on my Glide with that and they are truly superb. It isn't necessary to have any more, with the right choice of shock. I have 1" of sag and re-adjust my shocks when Mrs B and I are touring, so we have 2" for absorbing whatever the road can throw at us. We have never ever bottomed out.

We can all enjoy that quality of ride, by simply spending a little more than cheap shocks! Smooth pavement isn't the problem, it's the pot-holes and railway crossings and such-like that cause pain......
I have the older/better JRI A 12" shock with 88mm/3.4" stroke, subtracting sag that would be 60.4mm/2.38" travel and seldom bottom out.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 10:10 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Deckman
I have the older/better JRI A 12" shock with 88mm/3.4" stroke, subtracting sag that would be 60.4mm/2.38" travel and seldom bottom out.
If you have adjustable damping, you should be able to tune out that bottoming. Our favourite shocks supplier can probably give you some tips!
 
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 11:42 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by grbrown
If you have adjustable damping, you should be able to tune out that bottoming. Our favourite shocks supplier can probably give you some tips!
Yeah I purchased these from Howard and the "A" shocks do not have dampening, only pre-load adjustment. They are a little stiff but are a huge improvement over the stock shocks.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 12:46 PM
  #34  
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Check out this YouTube video from Legend. How to set sag on the Legend REVO shocks. Real simple.

 
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 07:29 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Deckman
I have the older/better JRI A 12" shock with 88mm/3.4" stroke, subtracting sag that would be 60.4mm/2.38" travel and seldom bottom out.
Yes, you do have really great shocks. You are however not remembering what I explained to you a few years ago. You have 88mm of stroke. You can and at some point have used all of them when riding. The sag just sets the amount of stroke you allocate for rebound. That is the part that goes into the hole. If you rode on a frozen lake or pool table than, yes, you would have 60.4mm/2.38" for compression. That is what could be described and looks like a speed bump. It makes the wheel go up only. Rebound only is the part when the shock starts to extend down.

Since you do not live in a world where all bumps go up and you as well as all are subjective to the ups and downs of life as well as on the road, you use rebound. I make the shocks to keep the frame stable and the wheel to go up and down while (in theory) not moving the bike. Many of the look like shocks can not do this because the money was not spent on developing a slippery shaft, piston that does not drag, and properly designed valving. Being able to externally tune your shock to the exact feel you want for the type of riding you want is more desirable than not having it.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2016 | 03:20 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by FastHarley
Being able to externally tune your shock to the exact feel you want for the type of riding you want is more desirable than not having it.
Why is this point so difficult for people in these shock threads to understand?

Don' t think i am understaing what the rest of the post states but this basic concept/benefit of damping adjustment just seems to elude some people on this forum.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2016 | 04:13 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by todd-67
Why is this point so difficult for people in these shock threads to understand?

Don' t think i am understaing what the rest of the post states but this basic concept/benefit of damping adjustment just seems to elude some people on this forum.
It is not a difficult concept to understand. It is roughly a $300 charge so to many it is a cost versus benefit thing. Apparently the idea that not everyone can just spend an additional $300 on shocks is a concept that eludes you.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2016 | 06:16 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by qtrracer
It is not a difficult concept to understand. It is roughly a $300 charge so to many it is a cost versus benefit thing. Apparently the idea that not everyone can just spend an additional $300 on shocks is a concept that eludes you.
You might be right but from my point of view a suspension is something i ride on everyday. Everyones priorities on money spent is different. Many are satisified with a stage one bike where others need the most power they can get out their motor. I guess it boils down to what you think is important.
 

Last edited by todd-67; Jan 30, 2016 at 06:35 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2016 | 08:07 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Deckman
Yeah I purchased these from Howard and the "A" shocks do not have dampening, only pre-load adjustment. They are a little stiff but are a huge improvement over the stock shocks.
As is on your invoice under item 00, just call me. I live in EST (FLA) and I am working all day tomorrow (Sunday). If you do call me than have your bike ready to be worked on and have tools at the ready. You can not be having these problems, however, I am 100% sure I can fix them with your help. We will do it no different than the instructions you received with Amy pointing to all discussions. In place or riding on a bike that is not 100% comfortable, you should just call and be done with it. You got my #.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2016 | 03:40 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by todd-67
You might be right but from my point of view a suspension is something i ride on everyday. Everyones priorities on money spent is different. Many are satisified with a stage one bike where others need the most power they can get out their motor. I guess it boils down to what you think is important.
Extremely important point! Like everything, there is a point of diminishing returns. That point is in the eyes of the individual. Some are willing to spend whatever it takes for the absolute limit. Most of us live a bit down that scale and find our suspension upgrade a huge improvement over stock. Because it is.
 
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